Tuesday
1st May 2012
Up
painfully early, well 6am.... but small one was hung over and complaining about
it. Still were not sure if this helicopter over the Rockies was going ahead or
not, it was kind of cloudy outside, but not as bad as yesterday. Tried phoning
them, but they were closed until 8am. Phoned after 8am and was told it was
going ahead and our pickup was on his way to collect us. Quickly had a
breakfast in the hostel cafe, coffee and a cheese sandwhich (which somehow
still took them half an hour to make). Checked out hostel with all bags and the
Helicopter shuttle arrived. Driven by some young fresh faced Canadian boy who
looked about 16, but was 22 and had a helicopter license. We were his only
pickup sin Banff so we drove the 20 minute drive down to Canmore.
Paid the $120 each, then sat
through a boring video, got weighed and then waited for our turn to go. Small
one was pretty nervous, but in the end was looking forward to it. We watched 2
helicopters take off and land, up into the misty mountains around us. Small one
text his father that he was just about to go up in a helicopter. A minute after
he pressed send the girl from the front desk came up to us and whispered, “i’m
very sorry guys the weather has changed to bad, there’s now too much fog for
the helicopters to fly”. Small one noticed that two groups of four were still
queuing and she had not told them, she’d just told us in private, he asked
about this and she said that they won’t be going either. We got a full refund
and at least they weren’t stuffy about well we’ll keep your money until you can
come back, they were pretty apologetic and nice about it at least. Got back in
the shuttle with the same lad, drove 20 minutes back to Banff and was dropped
at the bus station – at the very least we had got a free ride from the hostel
to the bus station (all be it an hour trip in all). Small one text father back,
helicopter called off.
Stored our bags at station then
went to McDonalds for an hour. Small one asked for a McChicken sandwhich only
for the woman to say “we are still serving breakfast what would you like from
the breakfast menu?”, small one said “nothing, i’ll wait the fifteen minutes
until it’s over”, she sharply added, “actually it’s 20 minutes...”. Back to the
station, and finally the bus turned up at around 1pm. The driver pointed out
that our Unlimited Discovery passes ended today, but let us on anyway. Small
one sat tired, hung over and complaining. It was only an hour and a half to
Calgary, and on the way we saw a herd of Elk in the birch trees by Canmore
(which the lad who drove us by here earlier had told us all the trees are dark
from 5foot down from all the Elk scratching on them), we also saw half a dozen
gopher standing on their dug holes by the highway.
Arrived in Calgary and it was
tipping with rain. Stepped off bus and into the station (for our third time in
this one), only for two large men dressed casually, approached one of us each
and spoke softly saying “I’m from the Transit Security” showing us a badge
which could have come from a cereal box. Tall and small were a bit confused,
but went with it. They were ‘interviewed’ separately and told that they were
free to leave at anytime, then were asked where they were from, where they had
travelled, where they were going, can I see some ID, do we use drugs, do we
have drugs on us, have we seen people using drugs? Apparently they had smelled
hash when people were getting off the bus and obviously we looked like the
likely candidates. They wished us well and off we went, walking 2km in the rain
to get to the airport shuttle stop in town.
As we walked up the highway into
the CBD, infront of us was a girl walking on her own, purple rain coat and a
pink umbrella – only she had deliberately turned the umbrella inside out, and so
walked with it above her head with it catching all the rain like a bowl. She
then would occasionally stop and lower the umbrella, look inside and see how
much water was there, then hold it back up and keep walking whilst singing to
herself. Tall one presumed (and later was found correct) that she must be Asian
– as most Asian girls are loopy. Finally found the bus stop, waited half an
hour. Just as the bus pulled up a large woman started talking to us asking the
standard questions, “so where you guys from?”. There was the usual long pause
to see which of us would be bothered to answer, small one pretended to be
counting his $8 in change the bus website had told us we’d need. Tall one did
the conversation thing, but thankfully was cut off by the bus arriving. Got on
the bus and tall one put in his $8 in change in the money box thing and walked on,
small one got on to pay, but the driver told him that it was only $2.75 from
town to the airport, so tall one had thrown in enough for both and then some
(been having bad luck getting the correct info from websites recently). Half
hour later off at the airport about 4.pm, found free wifi and power points
(where we sit now opposite Starbucks). Tall one checked us in (flight leaves at
Midnight though), and found there was only two seats left next to each other on
the way to Toronto, which was fine, but the connection to St John’s only had
either 2 seats one infront of the other, or two seats in the same row but the
otherside of the plan. Finished the process then went back to Starbucks to sit
and wait until Midnight.... great stuff.
Went for a ‘proper’ meal in some
grill place, $20 each. Half the other customers seemed to be not touching a
thing on their plates and walking off. Small one asked the waiter if he could have
mayonnaise, he brought back this little dish of spicy orange stuff?? Went
through customs relatively painlessly, then sat on some soft chairs facing out
over the planes, occasionally nodding off for 10 uncomfortable minutes. Boarded
around 11.45pm.
Monday
30th April 2012
Up
bright and early around 5.45am. Showered and ate a dry bagel with some very
small creamy yoghurts for a dodgy breakfast. Sundog shuttle was due to pick us
up at 7am and take us to Banff, arriving 11.30am. We stood outside the hostel
from 6.45am, and waited and waited.... At 7.20am we dug out their phone number,
small one had to topup his phone and we called their office as several marked
and unmarked shuttles had driven past us with drivers looking bemused. The
office said they were on their way. It finally arrived just after 7.30am, after
waiting 45 minutes out in the cold. The driver was a craggy faced local, not
all that friendly and not very talkative. We got on the minibus and presumed he
was late due to all the pickups, only to see only 2 other passengers??? We then
spent another half an hour picking up another 2 people, one was a English girl
who almost knocked small one out with her backpack, and then sat behind us
coffing non-stop for the whole trip. The other was picked up at the H.I.
Jasper, which looked pretty grotty – was basically one old wooden building 15
minutes out of town into the woods, no running water, and was just one big room
with 40 beds (we had read about it online).
Shuttle set off, and it was a
pretty foggy day, though no snow or rain. The mountain road down through the
Rockies was pretty nice, tall jagged snowy topped mountain ranges. Around the
Columbian icefields there was still thick snow piled up buy the road and
covering all around – the first snow we’d seen since leaving the Yukon. As we
drove down the mountain road looking for bears, the German backpacker at the
front of the bus pointed to something ahead of us in the road. The driver
slowed down and right next to the shuttle bus, jogging alongside, was a grey
wolf. It paid no attention to us, other than one quick sideways glance and
continued to trot along up the road. We did see as we went past that it had a
black tracking collar on, which the rangers presumably had caught some of the
pack to track them. We took a rest stop for 20 minutes at a random cafe /
lodge, where a banana and an apple cost $4.20! Small one said he’d put the
banna back. Back in the shuttle and arrived in Banff about 11.40am. The driver
pulled some bizarre driving techniques, as when hotels came up for the drop
offs, he didn’t like to swing across the road into their lay-by’s, he’d keep
driving and find some turning point 5 minutes away before turning around and
heading back so he could pull into the lay-by on the same side. He dropped of
one guy dressed in baggy jeans, baseball cap who was carrying three suits on
hangers, and had so much luggage the hotel had to bring a trolley out for him.
Finally dropped at the Banff-Y
Lodge where we’d stayed back in March. Reception informed us that as there was
an issue last time with some very noisy drunk neighbours, they had upgraded for
free to an ensuite private room. Dropped bags in room and headed into town.
Small one on the hunt for a barbers, but was soon told the cheapest was $20. To
the post office to post some books tall one had tried to buy in Nanaimo and
sell on ebay, with not much success at gaining any profit. Had a Mcdonalds with
free wifi, before stopping for small one to buy some new hiking boots (his old
one’s smell like death itself). The only size that fit him was a children’s
girl’s size 5.5, UK size 5. His feet must have shrunk with the sweat in the
last pair. They then headed to Banff Old Cemetary and hunted around to find the
grave of Banff historic figure named Wild Bill Peyto, who tall one had just
finished reading a book on in McDonalds. They paid there respects, with small
one jokingly pointing to a small bone next to his grave asking if that was his
leg? On the way back to the hostel phoned the helicopter company we had booked
a flight over the rockies tomorrow with, as the forecast was terrible, they
said phone in the morning as they cancelled all flights today. Then phoned the
wwoofing organic farm in St John’s who had still not replied to our email or
questions after 2 weeks. After a few attempts a women answered (the one they’d
been dealing with was still in Arizona), tall one spoke as if it was all
confirmed and definite, asking how to get to the farm on Wednesday. She said
she’d check with the husband, who could be heard gruffly saying he was not
doing that, and did not want to be put on the phone.... Still, wasn’t all bad,
as she did not say “I have no idea who you are”. So, although still a bit
sketchy, we’ll just turn up Wednesday morning, without having had a
confirmation or response for certain.
Back up town and into James’
Gate Irish Pub. Seated by the open fire by the waitresses all wearing very
short kilts. Convinced her to give us the special offer on 2 for price of 1 on
appetizers, so ended up with a bowl of irish nachos heaped a foot high with
chips coloured green, whiteish and orange. As well as a bowl of ten beef and
horseradish stuffed Yorkshire puddings, onto the mains (which were smaller than
the appetizers or we’d be dead), a rib eye steak and Shepard’s pie, then a
sticky toffee pudding. Staggered painfully onto the street and up to a bar
called Melissa’s (which stunk of fish downstairs). There we met Pat and Maude
who we last for drinks in Toronto before they left for the Blue Mountains. Many
stories to tell, especially the long saga involving wwoofing with Mary and
Rolland up in Whitehorse. Got back after
midnight and small one was dying, he’s not able anymore.
Sunday
29th April 2012
Another
lie on, though small one was up at 6am to see Celtic thrash Rangers. Out for a
celebratory breakfast at A&W where they had an offer for 2 egg and bacon
sandwiches for $5. Back to the hostel to shower, and noticed how the toilet’s
flush is broken – making the water (and anything in it) constantly spin round
in an endless, hypnotic circle. Ate a box of Wagon Wheel’s for lunch and headed
out for another walking trail about 3pm.
This trail was on the other side
of town, called the Mina Lakes trail. It started taking us past the back of
everybody’s houses, so you could look right into all their bedrooms as the
trail headed up and along the ridge. The weather was due to be terrible today,
but actually was quite warm and sunny with clouds. This trail was very quiet
compared to yesterdays jog-a-thon. Small one had bear spray at the ready and
was constantly on the look out. Made it to the Lower and Upper Mina Lakes, both
half frozen still. The first lake was a bit marshy round the edges, and tall
one was trying to get to the edge as they had seen a group of 3-4 beavers
playing at one end of the lake. Luckily the camera had a good zoom and they
could see later on what they actually were.
Followed the trail up hill and
then started coming back down towards a river. Caught up with some German girl
walking alone, who was the first person we’d seen in an hour, she had shocking
English so we kept walking. At one point the trail hit a fork and there were no
signs as to which way to go. We took the narrow path heading down the steep
ridge. Luckily it made it to a clearing with a road, where an unfriendly old
couple were walking an Alsatian and a Jack Russell. Ten minutes down the road
suddenly a herd of huge Elk came running out the woods towards us. These things
are pretty huge and powerful, even though the two males were pretty young and
had only small antlers, it was still a bit nervous to be so close to them. They
didn’t show much fear at all, and grouped on the edge of the forest chewing
grass and watching us. We edged past and made it back into town. Stopped off for
a pizza hut offer, which strangely was combined with a KFC using the same
cashier to make both orders? Back to hostel to have a good tidy up ready to
catch the shuttle down to Banff tomorrow. Tried e-mailing the wwoofing farm in
St John’s, who as yet had not responded to our email sent a week ago asking her
to confirm we were all go to work for her from t he 2nd May when our
plane landed. This was a bit worrying as we don’t want to end up with no
wwoofing farm, especially after blowing out the Dublin guy who was asking for
two many hours for no pay.
Saturday
28th April 2012
A
good lie on until 9-10am. Headed into town, was a great sunny, blue sky day
(forecast for rest of week is rain). Found out that the Greyhound bus we had
planned to take to Banff on Monday did not take the direct road through the
mountains to get there (a 5 hour drive), but went east to Edmonton, change bus,
then down to Calgary, change bus, then west back into Banff, taking 13 hours in
all. We priced a shuttle to take direct, which was 5 hours for $70 each or a
scenic full day with stops for $129....
Got to the railway depot to
speak to the two car rental companies inside to see if we could rent and drop
off in Jasper. National Care Rental had a little sign p saying ‘Off Cleaning a
Car back soon’, the other rental company Avis had a sign up saying the exact
same thing. We also tried another car rental company, Budget, but they were
also closed for lunch! Later we got the prices, but it was an additional $250
to drop off in Banff, so probably take the shuttle.
Train station had an enormous CN
Train arrive, which seemed to take an endless amount of time to pull past us
slowly, filled with a variety of carriages from new cars to timber to
passengers. Stopped in the information centre and got some info for local
trails, small one asked if there was any horse riding in town but pronounced it
‘hearse riding’, the poor woman was very confused. Then headed out of town.
Followed a trail over the river and a good forest trail up to Lake Beauvert.
The trail was however full of tubby middle aged men and women jogging messily
past us, seemed like some kind of group activity or race. Also headed up to
Lake Annette, and were both shattered from walking having been cooped up for
the last 2 days. The lakes were very something, they were both turquoise blue
and crystal clear water to the bottom. Last time we were in the Rockies in
March they were all frozen solid, but now they were pristine with the odd
frozen part which was even frozen blue. Saw plenty of deer which seemed tame as
sheep, though with the amount of people about was not surprised. All our
thoughts of seeing bears vanished when we saw how many people were about,
though the trail back down the Athabasca River was pretty quiet. Got back to
town exhausted, and brought ourselves an ice cream. Small one brought a whole
cooked chicken for dinner and we sat in the hostel eating it watching housing
programmes.
Friday
27th April 2012
Staggered
bleary eyed out of McDonalds around 6.30am, after an adequate breakfast. Walked
back to the bus depot, small one ready to collapse with tiredness. It was
pretty full but soon everyone left on a 7am bus and it was just tall, small and
two young idiots on their own. The bus to Jasper wasn’t for another 5 and a
half hours.... Small one did phone Budget car rental in Kamloops to see how
much it would be to rent and drop off in Jasper, they said $50 per day, then
$950 fee for drop off in Jasper! Small one said he’d have a think about it.
Small one curled up on the bench
and tried to sleep on and off for a good few hours. Meanwhile tall one sat
watching Castaway on his laptop. A fella in a leather jacket waltzed into the
depot telling the office he’d missed his bus when we the next one? He then had
to phone someone to tell them he;d be late and started pestering some poor
Asian woman by the phone for change. He stood at the end swearing and banging
the phone as it took his money and was asking for another $2.70 to make a call.
To calm him down the Asian woman kept feeding him quarters until she ran out
and he had to come over to tall one, who gave him 1 quarter. He made his phone
call which consisted of him shouting “well then wire me the money so i can get
home, i’ve been stuck here 3 days!”. He then smashed the phone on the receiver
a few times and stormed out, never coming back for the next bus he’d asked for.
The hours dragged by very
slowly. It was a real dingy depot, with brown tiled walls, and uncomfortable
blue plastic chairs. The cafeteria was huge, but everyone from the bus driver
to the 80’s perm behind the ticket desk were telling passengers to avoid it.
Announcements occasionally came over the speakers to the 4-5 people now sat in
the depot, including “attention passengers... a John Grisham Novel has been
found” or the other one was “Attention Passengers.... a ‘beat box’ has been
found in the toilet’.
It started filling up pretty
near to 12pm, but then a sign came up saying the bus we wanted would be 2 hours
late! Tall one ran down to Tim Hortons and got back with chilli, sandwiches,
muffins and orange juice for him and small one. Tall and small had been sat at
the front of the queue for the Jasper Bus since 6.30am, but this didn’t stop a
snotty nosed woman pushing her way through to put her bags in front of ours, or
a huge lump of a young lad in a gothic ‘Iced Earth’ t-shirt, who breathed
really noisily and made dull conversation – who also just walked round the
barrier and stood infront of all the bag lined up.
Soon our line of plastic chairs
was full of old grey haired ladies, and a couple of young lads. They all were
strangers travelling alone and suddenly all started having a big community
discussion.... it was quite bizarre to behold, as people queuing for other
buses started pitching in. They talked about any old nonsense from 80 year old
women smoking pot, to how in regard to Gay men you should hate the sin but love
the sinners. Then the bibles literally came out and they started looking up
bible quotes together.... tall one and small one looked at each other both
thinking “get me out of here...”. Still, finally the bus rolled in 2.30pm, we’d
been in Kamloops for over 13 hours, and not slept since the3 day before.
The driver was this bald fella
with a beard who was the most unenthusiastic, miserable man you;d meet doing
such a public job. He made no announcements of where we were or how we were
doing with our schedule (considering we were over 2 hours late), which meant
everyone kept asking him how much longer, only to receive a very short flat
responce. He drove the bus with his head propped up on one hand, a miserable
sulky sight to behold. There was some great scenary coming into Jasper at
least, which we would have missed on the over night bus we’d planned
originally. Saw a moose drinking from a pool byt he side of the road, and
plenty of huge snow topped mountains. Arrived to Kamloops at 9.30pm local time,
15 hours later than we had planned. Walked up the street to the home
accommodation we’d booked. There were no hostels at all listed for Jasper, with
the exception of a 40 bed dorm in a HI hostel, which was a 20 minute shuttle
outside of town?? There was however a good website where people had converted a
few rooms to private rooms and rented them for around $50-60 a night. We headed
up Geike Street looking for number 102. Walking past a nice big wooden lodge
numbered 120 we kept walking wishing we had booked that one. We then got to
house 104, then the next one was 100 ( a run down little bungalow). There was
no 102?? House 104 was a big double house with a sign for accommodation, so we
thought we’d knock there. As we walked up the path two young girls came out
carrying BBQ food, small one asked if this was Patti Clark’s place and they
couldn;t seem to understand a word he said. Finally we got a no out of them,
and headed back down the street to try the 120 house. Luckily it was correct
(must have written down 102 instead of 120). It was basically a basement floor
of their house, with three private rooms (one ensuite). Our twin room was really
nice, TV, fridge, kettle, microwave, very clean. Patti who let us in also
seemed very nice, and the price was pretty reasonable. We were soon in bed
asleep though as we were both extremely tired by now.
Thursday
26th April 2012
Up
around 8am, our bus today (according to the Greyhound website at least) as due
to leave at 1.45pm and was a direct bus to Vancouver arriving at 5.30pm, then
at 6.15pm we left for Jasper arriving 6am the next morning.... that wasn’t to
be as we’d find out at the depot, but first we had breakfast. Downstairs in the
hostel was a mad house, last night a bus of students (more like school kids,
all around 12 years old) arrived screaming and running round the hallways. This
morning the kitchen was over run not just with students but with snotty
teachers. They’d arrogantly stand in the way as if they owned the kitchen, we
had to squeeze around them and ask permission to use the kettle which they were
boiling and re-boiling for the kids. Small one was even told to sit down and eat
his breakfast by one of them before they noticed he had a beard.
Headed down to the bus depot,
stopping briefly in Shopper’s Drug Mart to get a stamp and some other bits.
Tall one was looking at the cheapest sun cream to buy as they had got sun burnt
a couple of times. Whilst stood there looking a customer walked up (middle aged
plump woman) clutching a china mug of hot tea in the middle of the store and
started explaining the best sun creams to buy and commented how he had good
skin and so factor 30 would be best. Small one to to tell the ginger woman
behind the till that he wasn’t taking her to dinner tonight after promising her
he would if he wont he lotto last night. Next down to the station and a stop at
the British Lolly store again to buy Quavers, Monster Munch, Black Jacks, Lion
Bar, Milky Bar Buttons and a Galaxy.
At the bus depot it was quite
busy and a queue was already pretty long. We had to check out the hostel at
11am, so we arrived at the depot at 11.30am even though we were due to leave at
1.45pm. We asked some stuck up woman with a Greyhound jumper on for our ticket,
she said we could go to Vancouver either on the next bus leaving very shortly
or wait till 1.30pm, we regretfully said the 1.30pm. She then told us for some
unknown reason that we would not be on the direct bus, that that was not
Greyhound and costed $50, we told her it was listed on the Greyhound website
(Greyhound use other partner bus companies like Tofino Bus and Pacific), she
said that if you want to travel with OUR company it’s $50 and we could nto use
the Discovery Pass. Small one pointed out the Greyhound logo on her jumper and
said “your company is Greyhound”, she continued to tell us the website was
wrong as well, but said we could catch the Greyhound bus at 1.30pm, but she
could only give us a ticket as far as Nanaimo? (Usually they just issue you a
few tickets to cover each transfer to your final destination, or just let you
get on with your Unlimtied Discovery Pass). So now we had to change buses at
Nanaimo, get a new ticket, wait 40 minutes for a bus that would drive literally
5 mintues up the road to Departure Bay and catch the ferry there. This is what
we did, after sitting in a bizarre Asian coffee shop round the corner until
1.30pm. Even when we got on the bus the driver told us he did not understand
why she did not just give us a ticket to Vancouver, that’s what they usually
do....
The two hour trip to Nanaimo was
of course full of monster passengers. There was a very fragile and very slow
moving elderly English couple, stooped over their walking trollies who slowly
wheeled up right to the front of the queue and got on before everyone else
who’d been waiting for a good 45 minutes before them. Not that anyone minded,
but they seemed to be expert queue jumpers. Small oen asked them where they
were originally from and they said London, when he asked where Tall one was
from and he said Maidstone, he held his fingers to his nose to signify that the
place stunk. There was also an old mute man on the bus as when he wanted to
tell the driver (whilst in motion) where he wanted to get off he started to
mimes of waves with his hand and pointing and signalling, the driver was still
non the wiser. Later on the bus a young lad got on wearing green jeans, black
sunglasses and a white sailors hat. As we pulled into Nanaimo he started
singing the words to a Queen song from the very back of the bus very very
loudly and abruptly, everyone wondered what the hell was going on. He then
started yelling “OOOH GET ME OFF THIS FUCKIGN BUS, GET ME OFF THIS FUCKING BUS,
THERE’S MY LITTLE GIRLFRIEND!”. Much to the bemusement of the driver.
Got our second ticket, the
ticket office confirmed that with all these transfers and changes we would get
in to Vancouver at 7.45pm not 5.30pm as on the website, and so missing the
6.15pm to Jasper and there was not another until 6.15am the next morning. We
got to the ferry terminal eventually and boarded. Once on board we had a meal
from the cafeteria, tall one went healthy with a chicken salad, small one a
curry. Found some where nice and quiet to sit, only to then be joined by two
women and one very noisy pig noise making little girl. There was also a young
football team on the boat who ran up and down the floor above us making it
sound like the boat was blowing up. We could not seem to get away from children
today. We did at least see a lot of porpoises out the window on the way into
Horseshoe Bay, splashing and spread quite far and wide in the ocean.
Got off the ferry around 7pm and
had to get what was now a third Greyhound bus to Vancouver. They had only
brought an 11 seater mini bus out and there were 19 passengers to take (all
with pre-purchased tickets). Luckily we had carried out big luggage on and so
had got to the front of the queue. People were not happy and the driver had to
send 7 people off in three taxis paid for by Greyhound. One fella with a huge
beard and a big yellow jacket asked the driver if he had collected his bags
from the ferry bag collection okay, the driver told him that they didn’t do
that you were supposed to get it yourself. The bearded guy then said he wasn’t
going to go back and miss the taxi/bus to Vancouver and said it was only a
towel and some other stuff maybe they would send it to him (it was literally
just in the arrivals gate 1 minutes walk back). On the 45 minute drive to
Vancouver the driver said we could catch the 8.30pm bus to Kamloops which is
halfway between Vancouver and Jasper, and they had a 24 hour bus depot plus a
24 hour McDonalds / Tim Hortons. Are only other option was to sit in Vancouvers
(rough) depot from 7.45pm until the next bus to Jasper at 6.15am.... that was a
long time and the driver said the depot closed for a few hours as well, so we
decided to get the bus to Kamloops where’d we’d arrive at 1am and catch the
Jasper service when it came through there at 12 noon next day.
Inside the Vancouver depot it
was filled with smoke and also a huge bright studio light, they were filming
some kind of big Bollywood dance seen for a movie or something. We would definitely
not stay here tonight. On to the ticket office and the very very glum girl gave
us a ticket to Kamloops and said we had the last tickets, the bus was full so
queue up now as its first come first serve. We stood by the depot number an
hour early, a huge queue formed behind us. Some young couple arguing and
bringing out the tears to the bus driver that they’d lost their ticket and he
let them on anyway. We got on the bus first in the front seats and we noticed a
young guy arrive late but just walk past the queue of some 30 people to the
front, hand his bag to the driver and get on – another queue jumper who nobody
thought to stop.
Bus drove through the night to
Kamloops, arriving at 1am, the large driver named Giovanni kept being very loud
at all the bus stops on the way shouting at passengers to smoke AWAY FROM THE
BUS! He’d then get on to the announcement speakers and talk so softly and
quietly nobody could hear him. At Kamloops he announced that the sandwiches in
the cafeteria here were out of date and advised not to buy them. Small and Tall
got off and locked their bags in a depot locker for $4 for 6 hours. They over
heard the young couple with the “lost” ticket telling the Kamloops cashier that
they’d never been issued one and they could show her their visa as proof?? The
depot did seem to have a lot of quite larey / starey people, so we headed out
to McDonalds up the road. 24 Hour place where I am typing now, we sat down in a
small booth and brought a coffee and cheap burger. A sensible looking middle
aged man with glasses and a red jacket came in and started talking to us that
we had some pretty nifty looking laptops, yeah he hd some just like it. Tall
one nodded politely and turned away, small one ignored him. He then sat behind
us and tried talking again, but tall one had some head phones in (plugged into
nothing) pretending he could not hear. When we failed to talk to him he stopped
some poor young girl working for McDonalds (this was 2am) and started telling
her some bizarre story how they’d tried to assault him in the hospital and it
became sexual and that every child had the right to grow up normally....??? She
politely nodded and agreed and kept walking away, he kept talking and she kept
having to stop, but finally she got away. He stayed behind us for a good half
an hour making loud chewing noises, occasionally getting up and briskly walking
past out the door, we’d sigh relief until suddenly he’d come back in just as
briskly and sit back down again. Coming up to 2.30am now, not sure how long
we’re stay in McDonalds. Our other options our Tim Hortons (no wifi) or the
depot itself which at least has some benches we could lie down on if we didn’t
get mugged or turfed out.
Wednesday
25th April 2012
Up
pretty early, and the sky was overcast but no rain. Took a wonder out and
stopped in a strange little asian run cafe – had a microwaved then grilled
bacon/egg muffin, followed by a cup of tea which was made suspending an open
bag teabag skewed on a lolly stick across the top of the cup. Walked down along the harbourfront to the
fishing village. Four –five rows of cute little floating houses along various
piers, all decorated quirkily with hanging baskets and random junk. Further
along the pier two Harbour seals suddenly popped out the water just a few feet
from us. They must get fed a lot down here by tourists as they just floated
their looking at us all fat and spotty, occasionally going under and turning
over and over under the surface. Walked a lot further round to the long
concrete pier which stretched out into the harbour, at the end was a red and
white beacon where an old man sat whittling a stick. Walked back along the
slippery rocks that went around the base of the pier. Stopped to use the free
wifi next to a cafe filled with policemen drinking coffee. Small one had
received a letter at Canadiana which apparently said the tax office had only
received his refund form not the return form. Small one stormed back and after
reading the letter which Canadiana scanned and emailed him, was on the phone to
H&R block about it. Ironically it was tall one last year in Australia who
had all the problems, and it was also him who had the inexperienced fella in
Toronto who almost mis filed his return for half the actual refund he was
entitled to. We will see what happens.
Mid afternoon headed back out.
Took small one to the medical centre, another $90 fee and then $77 for the
prescription.... There was only one doctor (a woman) on duty. She was taking 2
patients at a time putting them in conjoining rooms and going between the two.
Small one went in and she was very sympathetic about this being his third time
in and all his fees, so she said she’d see if she had any of the prescription
he needed hanging around, and gave him 5 days of loose pills for nothing.
Before she came back in she went to see the other patient in the conjoining
room, it was a young lad also staying at our hostel. Small one could hear their
conversation perfectly through the door, he was saying “I only noticed them
this morning when i got into the shower, i shaved there so i could see
better...”, her response was “oooh yes look there they all are”.... apparently
he had crabs.
Meanwhile tall one popped up
town to buy a few bits. He ran into one of the lunatics who stayed at Canadiana
Hostel in Toronto. It was the middle aged bald guy who dressed completely in
black with a black bowler hat, he did not stop to speak to him but did follow
him all the way into the Dollar store where tall one lost him in the envelope
section. Tall one headed back to the doctors via a British Sweet Shop (stocked
up on Monster Munch, Lion Bars and Black Jacks). While in the waiting room
waiting for small one to come out, a big fella on crutches to his left leaned
over and asked him “do you mind if i asked you something.... how comfortable
are you in those shoes?”. He indicated the trainers talls one had on, tall one
looked confused, the big man continued, “those are very flat soles, i used to
wear flat shoes like that in my skate boarding days about ten years ago, i need
a pair of comfortable shoes, so do you find them comfortable?”, Tall one nodded
slowly, “I guess so, i don’t know?”. There was then a long silence, and Tall
one got up and asked the receptionist how much longer for the small one?
After small one came out, they
stopped off in Shoppers Drug Mart for the prescription where they had to queue
behind the crab guy from the hostel. They then stopped for a cheap Burger King
meal, and whilst they sat by the window eating a pickup truck pulled up and
stopped at the lights. In the front seat was a woman driving and two middle
aged guys squashed in next to her, the one in the middle was reading a
colourful children’s animal story book out loud... it was then we saw three
little kids all sat in the backseat of the pickup as well. Then back to the
hostel with us, to finish up the H&R Block case up over small one’s tax
return, and then pack bags for the bus trip tomorrow to Jasper.
Tuesday
24th April 2012
Small
one feeling a bit under the weather, he’d not able for this drinking lark
anymore. Fumbled about all morning and we managed to make a pretty good
breakfast of soup and cheese on toast. Had to get some air in the afternoon
after spending the whole morning cooped up. It had been raining all day but
went out to buy a magnet and some new blind man’s shades for small one. Stopped
in a small cafe with huge walls, walls covered with movie memorabilia. Was
served by this enormous but awkward black guy, who gave small one a Cappuccino
covered with cream and chocolate shavings which small one preceded to scrape
off. Soon left back to the hostel to stay cooped up a bit longer. Was going to
get dinner in the hostel cafe, but when we asked what their $6 Pasta of the day
was she told us it was ‘Vodka and Peppers’... we said no thankyou. Headed out
after 5pm and got a subway sandwhich up past all the drug addicts and looney
staring tramps. Then on to the cinema for the first time in a few months to see
The Hunger Games, which small one hated. It also seemed like no one in the
audience could control their bladder as literally not ten minutes would go by
without yet another person struggling by to go.
Back at the hostel around 9pm,
brought some fresh water and small one is claiming his throat is acting up
again, this is after twice now having paid the $70 odd fee plus prescriptions
to see Medical Centre Doctors. Online we had received a response today from our
Irish wwoofing host in Newfoundland, after he’d been adamant on asking for 40
hours a week work for food and board, we found another lady by St John’s who is
only asking 25 hours a week. We told him circumstance shad changed and we
couldn’t make it and he was actually pretty okay with it considering this had
been arranged back in January and we were only pulling out now just over a week
before we were due. Also in the news was that debris from the Japanese Tsunami
last year has now been confirmed found washed up on Long Beach, Canada. Which
is basically where we were a few days ago and where we found similar objects listed,
such as spray cans and bottles (floaty things I guess). Anyway, it’s still
raining and going to bed now. Rain due tomorrow as well so we were lucky with
the sunshine for the whale tour yesterday.
Monday
23rd April 2012
Had
a cereal breakfast in our room, eating out of washed out soup cups from Tim
Hortons and stolen soup spoons from the same place. Had some fruit and yoghurt
(there is a fridge in the room) but halfway through the yoghurt noticed it was
almost a month out of date. We then got a knock on the door about ten minutes
before we headed out for the day. Some guy told us our room was meant to be
open, the English girl who checked us in last night gave us the wrong room ad
someone had booked it today. So we had to move everything, thankfully just into
the room opposite, then when small one took down the old room key he could hear
the same English girl now checking in a new person into our old room, before
he’d even returned the key and before it had been cleaned.
Had a walk round town, down the
main streets – Douglas and Government. Then onto Beacon Hill Park where an
elderly couple with a map needed our help. They kept telling us that we were on
Blanche street, and we kept telling them no we our on Douglas street – and
despite pointing to the street sign saying Douglas street they were still hard
to convince. Into the park itself, on a nice warm sunny day. A few ducks ponds,
filled with turtles lined up on a floating log. A good lookout over the bay
with the snow capped mountain range of Washington State in the background.
Small oen spoke to a Canadian couple who’d rented mopeds for the day. Left the
park walking past a man sat in a bush drinking tea out o a china cup. Watched a
peacock in the carpark where small one took some photos, and a man in the car
behind us kept spitting loudly onto the pavement.
Had some food before our
Orca/Kilelr Whale boat tour at 2pm. A small diner like cafe, and ordered a
cheese Panini for $3.99 and a smoothie for $4.50. The cheese Panini turned out
to be just toasted cheese sandwhiches (normal bread). The diner’s toilet’s had
little number code pads to unlock and get in. Small one asked the English
cashier what the password for the toilet was, and the man said it’s “5, 6, 7,
8” whislt counting 1, 2, 3, 4, on his fingers?
Into the Springtide Whale
Watching office. Two bubbly girls made us sign some stuff, the hostel had
booked our tour for the day, but they had written us down as “Haggarty and
Bart” instead of “Hegarty and Barton”?? Was then led down to the docks,
followed by some foreign guy with an enormous camera, this looked more of a TV
Studio camera than anything we’d seen, with this bizarre mechano like metal
framework built around it. Thankfully he was going on the cruiser boat, not the raft-like Zodiac boat
we were.
In the end it was just us two
and four middle aged Australians. We were sweating with the heat of the sun and
then were told to put on this padded water proof overalls, these were also life
jackets and protected yu from hypothermia if we fell in. Our Captain of the
boat today was a Dublin Girl younger than us, she’d be driving and was being
trained by a droll speaking middle aged Canadian man. The day went perfectly
fine though.
Headed out the harbour at 7
knots an hours, very slow. Small one had forgotten his sunglasses and when he
asked the Dublin girl for a spare pair he was given a pair of plastic workshop
wrap arounds – no shades on them, just clear plastic. Outside the harbour we
sped up to up to 50km, bouncing over the waves. Took us half an hour to get to
a small pod of 3-4 Killer Whales, all the whale watching companies had radios
and seemed to tip each other off on the locations, and so we were there with
another 3 boats. The large male Orca came out the water, his large fin cutting
through the waves and then back down again, followed by the two smaller ones.
The boat was not supposed to be closer than 100m, but occasionally they’d
surface a lot nearer to us, but still no closer than about 50m. Then we’d lose
them for a good ten minutes until they’d come back again. Sometimes we’d speed
on parrell to them to try and keep up and then stop again for a while. We
watched them for around an hour and a half. The captain informed us that the
snowy mountain range in the distance was Washington State USA, and that we were
now infact in American waters. Around this time small one received a text from
his phone provider to tell him he was now on roaming charges as he was out the
country! Finally we left the whales and before heading back to the islands
where we stopped to look at some fair size colonies of Harbour seals which were
laying in the sun on rocks (rocks just below the water surface so looked like
they were lying flat on top of the water), as well as several little seal heads
just bobbing up and down out the water. Back to the harbour just after 5pm, so
over 3 hours in all for $88 each. Was much better than the Whale tour in
Sydney, and gave us a glimpse at the wwoofing work we’d be doing for the
Grey/Humpback whale company in Nova Scotia in June.
Cooked a fantastic dinner in the
hostel, sausages, amazing backed potatoes, guacamole, beans AND HALF RED ONION EACH. Headed out for a pint at The
Irish Times where Paul O’Brien was playing live. Turned out he was Irish, but
raised in Birmingham UK – so spoke with a brummy accent, then was now resident
in Victoria. He played some Christy Moore, Nancy Spain, Ride On for small one,
which made small one happy. Had 3-4 Guinness each, Guinness was actually very
good, best so far in Canada. Followed by an Irish Coffee each, which again was
one of the best we’ve had – the cream was thick and last on the top for the
whole coffee. When we told the bartender the Guinness was good he wanted to
know why it was good, and started spouting on about how he’s taken American
training courses in pouring Guinness and has been pouring it for over ten years
in Irish Pubs across the states.... snzzzzzzzz. We were also joined sat at the
bar by a middle aged Asian man on his own. He sat at the bar and ordered their ‘Irish
Taster’ special, which was four half pints in a little box – one of Guinness,
one of Kilkenny, one of Smithwicks and one of Harp. He then sat there on his
own taking sips from each one simultaneously. Then a married couple came and
sat at the bar next to him, they could not get away from the fella. He pulled
his stool up close at started having what looked like an intense, close
conversation with the husband while the wife sat their bored and staring on. It
was a good night, we don’t have many out on our budget. Headed home, small one
the worse for wear.
Sunday
22nd April 2012
Up
earlyish and a brief goodbye to our manager and the dannish person we had both
come to love. Small one phoned home after trying and failing to phone for the
last few days. Went to Greyhound and was given a printed ticket all the way on
the 6 hour bus down to Victoria. Randomly the cashier guy (who looked a bit
like that guy from ‘House’ but with long hair) started chatting to us about how
our bike had broken down the other day, and when he handed us our tickets he
also gave us a piece of paper with his two sons’ Eric and Dylans phone numbers
on. He said give his son’s a call maybe we could go skateboarding or ‘get high’
with them??? This was his own son’s he was telling us to go get high with....
we wondered what age they were, probably 14. Then we wondered if we really
looked like the kinda of people who’d want to meet stoners and skateboarders?
Brought a roll, coffee and
kitkat from the grocery, which tall one only seemed to be charge half for. On
the large Tofino Bus with only about 8 passengers. The bus driver was this
strange, very twitchy, sweaty man with a goatie and glasses. He made very
strange dry commentaries which were neither funny or clever, but just weird. When
he fluffed his rehearsed jokes Small one could see him shaking his head and
tutting to himself for getting to wrong. When we got to Nanaimo we had to
change to a minibus as there was only 5 of us in total going on down to
Victoria. One of the passengers was Mr Bean who stood eating a banana very
slowly and stunk of hash. Another was an old thin lady who moved and spoke very
quietly, we think we had opened a jar of pasta sauce for her in Nanaimo a few
days ago. Arrived in Victoria about 5pm and the driver after a nervous
cigarette said he’d drop us outside the hostel. He took us up the main
‘Government’ street and told us some sights, then went on his way.
Hostel was very nice, quite
large with a combined bar, cafe and guests kitchen which was a little strange,
as you had to trudge through the bar and cafe with your own food to cook.
Upstairs to our room and you had to go through this enormous prison or zoo like
metal barred gate. We wondered who they were trying to keep in, or out. Was
given directions to a supermarket and headed up the road, finding a Subway, Tim
Hortons, Dominos, McDonalds all within 2 minutes from the hostel. We still made
it to the grocery store past a lot of homeless and general crazy people outside
a shelter. There also seemed to be a few weird larey guys with shaved heads
hanging about.
Had a walk down to the harbour
after dark, was nice to see all the lights and boats all lit up. Watched a
swearing magician doing some street entertainment to a group of people trying
to keep their distance so they wouldn’t have to pay. Walked back up Government
Street, it was a quit enice part of town, old buildings, nice boutique shops,
harbour etc etc. Started to look into what was the best Orca whale tour for
tomorrow as well.
Back at hostel they were having
a Blue Grass Traditional Music session in the bar, with 8 people playing
banjos, fiddles etc, and singing stupid lyrics in loud voices. It was quite
nice though they seemed to stop playing once we sat down. Had our fourth beer
of the week (the most this year so far!), only to be ID’d by the 18 year old
bar girl. She couldn’t work out the maths on tall one’s ID, we could see her
trying to add up on her finger show old he was if he was born in 1983 – in the
end she asked how old he was, and he said dryly, “29”.
Went to bed after small on
destroyed the toilet outside the room. A hoard of loud, annoying ‘young’ people
were making too much noise enjoying themselves on the stairs. Getting too old
for this....
Saturday
21st April 2012
The
young American couple left the hostel, but we were still stuck with a lone
Denmark lad (who lived in Germany, so was just another German). He insisted on
making strange comments such as “you are on your second breakfast now no?”,
when we had cereal and toast one morning.... the bastard, how dare he!
Saturday was just a lie on, then
struggled up with aches and pains from the bike ride to go on a brief walk down
to the third beach again. Explored the wooden walkway and then paddled in the
ice cold Pacific Ocean before running home. That was about all we did, except
cook some jacket potatos and pasta, with the manager making a brief appearance
to point out how we’d been using his gas BBQ everyday.
Friday
20th April 2012
Up
early, croissants with stolen jam, and packed lunch with avocado sandwiches.
The sky was bright blue the sun was out, no rain today. Re-took some of the
harbour photos no with the bright sky, much better. Headed to the bike rental
place (also Greyhound bus office). A hippy woman with dred locks rented us the
bikes- $15 each until 4.30pm, and a $150 deposit. She claimed that she was a
‘pot head’ and even she could ride these bikes for 20km. She said we could have
the “cruiser” bikes which were only one gear, but could rid eon the beach, or the
3 gear bikes which could not. We went with the cruiser model, and so struggled
and ached the whole way there and back.
We set off through town on the
cycle path to the information centre (Which was closed), ringing the little
bike bells like children which occasional made frogs in the boggy roadside
ditch call back to us. After 50 minutes of cycling (11km cycled from Tofino) we
detoured up Radar Hill. It was steep and so we walked the bikes up most of it,
but it was worth it. Great views of the mountain and bay and forests below.
Signs were up warning of wolves and cougars in the area, but the only wildlife
we saw was a hummingbird, which was quite nice.
Cycled much easier down the hill
(can’t think why), but then small one’s gears broke. Though the chain was still
attached and the pedals still turned the chain, the pedals would not turn the
actual wheel. We phoned the rental company and the ‘pot head’ had trouble
working out where we were, even though there are only about 3 things on this
20km road and Radar Hill (we were at the junction of the turn off) was one of
them. We waited about 50 minutes until a van drove up and gave small ne a new
bike and we were on our way again....
Finally made it to Long Beach
itself, some 16km from Tofino. There were signs at every turn stating “Park
Permits” $7.90 per adult. Seemingly we were supposed to buy a permit just to be
on the beach or up at Radar Hill. We never bothered, it seemed a bit steep just
to sit on a beach for ten minutes. Luckily we never saw a Ranger.
Sat on Long Beach and had our
lunch, overlooked by crows sat on huge bits of dry drift wood. Cycled up and
down the beach for a while before heading back. Stopped off a few km from the
beach to do a woodland 1km walk to Schooner Bay. Weaved on a slippery walkway
through big mossy trees until we came out on this fantastic little beach cove
with a little island, and again heaps of old driftwood. By the beach collected
in a pile was some random garbage, including a bottle and a spray can both with
Japanese writing on. We thought it may have been washed across from the
Japanese Tsunami last year, as there had been reports to expect wreckage in
Canada about now. Stood about for a bit and then came back.
Exhausted now, with knees, arses
and arms killing us. We strugglde back to Tofino. Was past by two middle aged
men, one holding a flaming Olympic Torch. Small one thought it was THE Olympic
torch and so stopped them. Turns out they were just some charity running the
world, had ran around Ireland back in 2009.
Finally made it back to town
around 3.30pm, after cycling about 34km in all, we are not in the best of
shape. Wanted a beer by the waterfront, but the pub had closed at 2.30pm!
Brought a six pack and went back to the hostel – the first beers we’d had since
leaving Rivendell.
Thursday
19th April 2012
Walked
into town and posted our post cards. Found a coffee shop with a printer to
print something for tall one. The coffee shop was run by this loud arsehole who
was rushing around and making stupid comments. The printing was 50 cents for 1
page and supposedly another $1.75 to use the computer (even though it only took
20 seconds to stick in a USB and press print). Then it was out of paper and had
to wait for the arsehole to finish serving two people before he could get some.
We then had a cup of tea (which was made with some very fancy lacey teabags),
and noticed the jam portions on the centre of the table. We had had our
croissants this morning with cheese and butter, and so subtly stole some jam portions
from the arsehole.
Headed up the length of the
small town, asked a few places for bike rentals. Got up to the EIK Cedar tree
which was 800 years old, in 2001 2 men climbed the top and sat in its branches
for 37 days to stop it being chopped down – it’s now protected and even has
iron struts stopping it falling down. Back into town and it was now raining
pretty hard. Had some lunch – tall one had some dodgy fish n chips whilst small
one had 1 pizza slice for $5! Headed out on a forest trail for 1.7km to Third
Beach. Lots of signs up warning about wolves, but all we saw was under age kids
drinking beer and smoking hash in the woods. The forest was very nice, huge
trees of all shapes and sizes, their branches dripping with thick swampy green
moss. The beach was nice, even though it was wet, rainy and very misty.
Back to hostel, and plan to rent
bikes for the next two days to go to Long Beach and a few hike trails. After
that not sure what we’ll do here as all the boat tours (to see bears or whales)
are too expensive. Decided to go to Victoria 2 days earlier (a City at the
south of Vancouver Island), to get an extra 2 days there (apparently it also
has resident Orcas). Asked the manager at the hostel here if we could get a
refund on our last 2 nights, he claimed he could keep 50% of the money even
though we were giving over 48 hours notice. In the end after bugging him and
complaining about his wifi going in and out, he gave us a full refund. A young
Canadian couple checked into the double room, and small one BBQ’d some chicken
for dinner. Tall one sat and watched the Green Mile on his laptop.
Wednesday
18th April 2012
Up
early and showered, snuck out of the hostel before th German Hiccup backpacker
found us again. Told reception how we’d broken some little plastic cover on the
wall, it just came off when we moved our bag, she couldn’t care less, but was
friendly none the less. A walk up the hill to Tim Hortons, very busy, so busy
they had run out of most things we asked for. Finally on to the Greyhound
depot, was given 2 tickets to Tofino leaving at 10am and arriving 2.30pm. Sat
outside in the cool watching 4-5 different buses moving about, wondering if we
were gong on 1 of 3 Greyhound buses, or a small white shuttle bus or a Tofino
Bus (different company) bus. Then as we sat waiting and wondering in the
distant we heard him.... “hiccup!” came from down the street, He was there, the
little friendly German fella was back. He brought his ticket and we all got on
board, he sat on the seat to our left, we didn’t speak too much at least –
small one had head phones in his ears which weren’t even plugged in to anything
(as tall one had either broken or lost the 2 MP3 players they’d had since
Australia). We then watched the driver (balding guy with a big hat) load the
Geyhound Express parcels on-board. He gradually got more and more careless and
faster and faster as he worked his way down the trolley. The final parcel was
marked “FRAGILE “in huge letters, and we watched him literally throw this thing
underneath the bus, with an audible sound of something breaking.
The 4.5 journey was not bad,
though it felt like 12 hours. Nice scenery down some windy roads on the edge of
a lake, surrounded by hills and islands of pine trees covered with banks of
midst. The lunch stop at a 7-Eleven was hideous, tall one ended up being over
charged and all he really ate was a Kinda-Beauno bar, whilst small one broke
his teeth on a rock hard Chicken Burger and had to take it back. The downside
was the other passengers, infront of us was an old married couple celebrating
50 years together (they were harmless enough in fairness) though the driver
(who was wearing slippers) kept showing them photos on his phone of ducks in a
park, and even claimed that he knew them by name (and he did not mean the
breed, he meant the ducks’ names??). The Native couple to their left looked
like they were dying – coughing non stop with their blood shot eyes. Behind
them was the German lad who still kept letting out this loud Hiccup sound every
half an hour or so (no a fit of hiccups just one at a time). Behind us was a
George Hamilton like American with his pristine grey hair and cord jacket – he
kept doing this weird noise where he’d clear his throat very abruptly and kept
going back and forth to the toilets. Speaking of the bus toilet, there was a
sign above the seat which said “Men at Sea Pee Sitting Down” and had an
illustration of a man sitting down to piss.
We arrived in Tofino and found
the hostel just up the road. It was an upstairs of a detached house, and quite
nice. Only four double/twin rooms, and had been closed all winter. He told us
we would be the only people staying here so made ourselves at home. Went ot the
grocery just 2 minutes down the road and spent $103 on food, eating well for a
change. As we sat preparing dinner and using the wifi we then realized we were
not alone. The manager (middle aged Canadian man from New Brunswick) started
came up from downstairs and started cooking his dinner in the kitchen. He then
checked in the George Hamilton throat clearing guy from the bus (thankfully
there was no sign of the hiccup German). Tall and small quickly tidied up all
their mess spread around the small floor and bathroom that they presumed would
only be used by them. Small one then asked the manager if he could use the BBQ
and spent ten minutes cleaning it. Before he could use it himself the owner
jumped on it to finish cooking his own dinner, and then left to eat it
downstairs without cleaning it. Small one then had to scrub the thing clean again
to cook our burgers. The food was good, and we sit typing in the lounge. George
Hamilton just came out of his room and swanned into the bathroom wearing a
bizarre black neck scarf where he proceeded to cough of something or another.
We’ll go hide in our room if he sits down to have a chat, we’ve already had the
whole “where you guys from?” line of questioning from the manager.
Tuesday
17th April 2012
Left
the hostel around 7.30am, sopping by reception for small one to write in the
guests book “please clean the showers”. A hurtful walk to the station with bags
in tow. A McDonalds breakfast and then queuing for the us we realized there
were only 8 of us going. Then our little ginger driver (twice from yesterday)
came up and was taking us again today. Oyt came the pad and pen to write down
our Discovery Pass details again. Today was a bit different we were put on an 8
seater mini bus to take us the half an hour to Horseshoe Bay Ferry Terminal.
From there we had to get our own tickets and walk on ferry going to Vancouver
Island – at the other end another bus would pick us up and drive us the 10
minutes to the greyhound depot on the island. We sat with our eight passengers,
next to tall one was a rough man with a cleft lip who stunk from arsehole to
breakfast time – he was making this erratic scratching noise (Tall one thought
he had a coloring in book) but when tall and small glanced over to him they saw
he had a stack of instant scratch to win cards, he worked his way through these
for a good ten minutes. Infront of him sat a miserable old bastard travelling
alone, who would not stop complaining about ht eservice how he had to get off
the bus and walk to the boat with his own legs, and get back on a bus the
otherside – he also had a strange habit of tapping away on a Blackberry phone
but would hold it clasped secretly in his hands held literally an inch from his
face. The other passengers were old doddery old women (actually about 80% of
the passengers on the ferry must have been over 70).
Ginger driver dropped us off,
and he had to tell the rough smelly man to stand back as he was smoking right
next to all of us, the smoking man was being awkard saying he just wanted his
bag.... well you can wait for your bag over there. On to the ferry ($15 each),
and while tall one hunted for the toilet small one was left upfront looking at
a pod of feeding dolphins in the water – all one had the camera with him so
small one could only watch, and tall one came back after seeing nothing. Tall one treated them both to a fry up
breakfast, and then the ferry arrived around 12pm. Onto another greyhound bus,
with only four passengers total now – this time it was a 30 seater?! Dropped
into Nanaimo, and after another tiring walk made it to the Painted Turtle
Hostel.
It was a lovely hostel, only 30
beds, and the receptionist was very friendly, place very clean. We walked into
town and saw the waterfront (it was a very overcast day), did some food
shopping (where a strange young local lad was trying to stare tall one out of
it for some reason), headed back to the hostel after stopping to buy some old
books to try and sell online. Back at the hostel the wifi was working well,
managed to get all the back dated CSI episodes we’d missed, though Ted Danson
was not Grissam. The hostel started filling up with annoying lonely German
backpackers – all of which you could see on the prowl to latch on to someone to
start talking and socializing. We didn;t want any of it, but this one lad in
particular just kept coming back to sit next to us (hiccupng constantly) and
making little questions and suggestions (let’s cook dinner together!) .
Unfortunately he was going to Tofino was us in the morning, and there is only
one hostel in Tofino so there will be nowhere to hide (hopefully they’ll be booked
out). We ate one of the 2 pizzas listening to the Australian owner training two
young girls in to receptionists – he was talking the biggest load of guff we’d
ever heard. Finally went back and hid in the rooms, as there were too many
backpackers to avoid now.
Monday
16th April 2012
The
alarm did not go off, but awoke around 6.30am, managed to shower and be out the
door by about 6.50am. Walked down to the Greyhound bus depot and got on board
the bus for 8am, the one that was taking us to Whistler for the day. On the way
out of town past a very rough looking guy stealing a supermarket trolley,
aggressively pulling it up over the curb by the bus station, we had seen him in
McDonalds earlier playing children’s computer game son his laptop.
The bus journey up was only 2
and a half hours, small one was driven crazy by the squeaky noise the
windscreen wiper made every time it moved – tall one just thought he was crazy.
Arrived about 10.30am, and got some advice from the info centre where to do a
quick trail, and also took a ‘how to avoid being eaten by black bears’ leaflet.
Just outside of Whistler Village the bus driver had shouted out “Bear” and
pointed somewhere off to a ridge by the side of the road, but we didn’t see
anything, apparently they only have black bears up here, no Grizzlies. Wondered
around the village for a while and brought some groceries. It was kind aof
similar to Banff, but the village was a long windy, quite enclosed highstreet,
with pretty modern looking buildings – so in that sense nothing like Banff,
with it’s history dating back to the 1900’s, and it’s large grid like town. The
scenery was similar, the snow had thawed enough so that the lakes and rivers
weren’t particularly frozen, but unfortunately it was quite over cast so could not
see the mountain tops at all.
Headed out on our loop track
around Alta Lake. Was looking for bears, but saw none. Though we did see an
Otter come out of a hole in one part of the lake which was still frozen. He
peered at us before going back into his hole and peeping back out from the
safety of the water. Further up we also saw three-four chipmunks chasing each
other along the side of the road. Plenty of people jogging on the trail, but
only half of them seemed to have bothered with the bear spray, which some
clutched in one hand. There also seemed to be a lot of new big houses being
built along the lake. Was getting a bit too over developed, nice as some of
them were – they were pretty close to each other.
Got to about 1pm and we weren’t
sure if we’d make it back for the 1.30pm bus or have to wait until the 4.30pm.
Small one got fast legs from somewhere and we walked that final 1.8km in record
time, getting back in time to queue (it was a busy bus) for the return journey.
It turned out to be the exact same short ginger driver we had had on the way up
(only 3 hours ago). If he remembered us he didn’t say, but they usually do
remember as the unlimited Discovery Passes aren’t all that common, and they
have to go to the bother of getting a special slip and copying down all your
details on it for each journey.
Bus back was another 2.5 hours
or so. Vancouver had pretty blue skies compared to the fog we’d been in the
mountains with. Went for a bit of a shop, headed to a large bookshop down the
road from the hostel, called Macleods books. It was a big shop, but had too
many books that it couldn’t hold them all. Shelves were so close together and
books stacked precariously infront of each other too high to balance properly,
that it was quite scary trying to navigate around them with the threat of domino effect avalanche of books crushing
you. Managed to make it out alive and after a bit more looking around the
Granville High Street, back to hostel to struggle with the terrible wifi.
Sunday
15th April 2012
Awoken
at 2am this morning by some big hoo-ha out in the alley outside our window. All
we could here was the shrieking argument between a male and female tramp. The
male tramp was yelling “FIND YOUR OWN ALLEYWAY I’M HAVING A SHIT!”, her
response was “fuck you fuck you fuck you CUNT”. This went on for a good fifteen
minutes, amidst the sound of bags of cans being raided. Finally back to sleep.
Awoke again around 7.30am,
headed out for breakfast and tried and tried to find somewhere that was healthy
and cheap. It was hard work as the only cheap breakfast ($5 breakfasts) were
your McDonalds, Subways and Tim Hortons – which we are very sick of eating.
Found a food court and had a $10 breakfast of fruit, yoghurt, bagel and coffee.
Small one went to use the gents toilets in the food court – only to find that
the stall doors where these short saloon like doors (only as low as your knees
and as high as your waist). So when small one went to go into one he could see
face to face with the man sat down having a shit, who exclaimed “somebody’s in
here”, and looking straight back into his eyes small one said “yes, there
certainly is”. Walked along the water front and sea wall. It was quite overcast
so you could not see the mountain range the other side of the bay, but it did
clear up in the evening for us to go back down. We headed into Stanley Park and
walked around the Totems, up the east shoreline and inland to Beaver Lake –
where there are apparently beavers, but all we could see was a big muddy twiggy
pile in the lake and a lot of gnawing on the trees which the council had
covered with chicken wire. Headed out to the west shoreline, down the beach and
tall one ate a messy, sticky chocolate and strawberry crepe. Further down we
crossed an endless bridge to get across to Granville Island, this was to save
the $3.25 return on the little rainbow ferry (a 30 second ride). Small one got
shouted at by a very angry cyclist man for almost stepping out into the cycle
lane, he bellowed something not quite coherent and we presumed it was one of
the many crazy people in the city and just kept walking till he almost ran into
us.
Granville Market was alright,
just Market area – similar to St Lawrence and Kensington in Toronto but a half
an hour walk across a bridge to get to. As we walked out of Granville there was
some drama queen in a high-vis top on his walkie-talkie, saying that all the
taxis were parking where they shouldn’t be and they just keep coming and he
didn’t want to be fighting against some taxi uprising so what should he do?
Small one wanted to stay and hear more, but it was all gonna be a big anti
climax anyway, as this uprising he spoke of was currently two taxi cabs parked
in a loading bay. Small one now very tired, so headed back to the centre to
stop and buy tall one a new hat (he was avoiding his Toronto Maple Leaf hat as
Vancouver are big on their Hockey), and also buy tall one some hair bobbins to
experiment with his long hair.
Saturday
14th April 2012
Tall
and small had boarded without incident at 11.15pm last night. There bus changed
at Kamloops about 6.15am. Small one had had the worst night on a bus in his
life, the spaces between the chairs was pretty tight, he ached from the
kayaking and had not slept on the ferry the night before either, not only that
the sound of tall one breathing through his blocked up nose was infuriating. On
the last leg down to Vancouver we noticed everyone getting on was pretty rough.
All quite young 20-30 year old blokes on their own. All of them getting on
stunk of hash wearing their track suits, baseball caps and hoodies. The scenary changed quite
radically from big green, but bare valleys, to very snowy mountain topped with
huge snow drifts by the road, back to barren fields, then to the big City as we
got into Vancouver. We’d not been inside a City for well over a month and
weren’t used to such a sight.
Dropped off in Vancouver bus depot at 12.15pm, walked
with the bags (Still painful) across the City which looked quite nice on this
clear blue sky day with its sky train, waterside park and weird giant golf
ball. Made it to the hostel, which had a small side entrance, but led upstairs
to a quite large, but somewhat tatty place. It wasn’t ultra modern, but it had
its certain charm, the staff were very friendly. Checked in and was pretty
cheap for a private room. When we got into the room itself we opened the blinds
and the window (we both stunk from the constant travelling for 2 days), looked
out the window onto the alleyway below only to see a group of woman stripped
down to their skimpy underwear posing for a seedy old man with a camera... it
wasn’t quite what we had expected. The hostel also completely stunk of hash...
it must be a ‘Vancouver thing’??
Headed
out after small one had a nap and then got his internet fix. The hostel is in a
pretty good location, and so we headed straight into Gastown – with it’s older
brick buildings, laneways, fancy coffee shops and a steaming clock. Then we
walked about one block south (towards Chinatown) and we have never seen a City
change it’s spots so quickly. Suddenly we were surrounded by rough hookers and
drug dealers, plainly doing there thing in the open. Tramps were walking past
in groups rambling out loud to themselves, giving everyone the eye, a sideways
glance down an alleyway revealed another group of tramps all busy at something,
under dustbins or arguing about something. It was pretty un-nerving, and yet in
the middle of all these dregs you’d come across a fine dining restaurant, with
hoards of toffy nosed business executives sat by the big glass windows drinking
wine, whilst outside we felt like we were going to get stabbed. We got out
quick and made it to the inside harbour, following it down under the bridge –
this area reminded us more of Sydney. Finally up the main shopping street,
Robson Street. Brought some ld pizza slices and wedges (9 exactly counted out
by the depressive cashier in 7 Eleven), then back to the hostel to sit in the
hallway on the wifi whilst eating and smelling hash. Our first impressions of
the City were pretty mixed, it seemed a much more trendy and hip place than
Toronto. The good streets were a lot flashier and cleaner, with much more
fancier bars and clubs full of rich wanker swanning in and out still wearing
sun glasses after dark. Next to that was all the hobos, addicts, hookers and
lunatics – at a first glance worse than Toronto, but overlapping more with the
other kind. Scenically was nice, not many big buildings, the big ones seemed to
be big shiny apartment buildings. In the background sat a snowy topped mountain
range which couldn’t be argued with. We’ll see of the City tomorrow, but are
not so inclined to extend our stay past the 2-3 days.
As
the wifi is so weak, we have to sit out in the corridor to use it, and so
managed to lock ourselves out of our room. Their reception closes at 8pm!! This
was about 8.08pm.... we tried to jimmy the lock (as it was a terrible lock with
a huge gap in it anyway) but no luck. Small one then went about the hostel in
search of the on-site staff. We found one of their rooms at 8.15pm and he
wasn’t happy at being disturbed at 8.15pm.... It’s a big hostel, much bigger
than the Corkman, so should be opened a little later than that. We had
originally planned to arrive after 9pm, and they had e-mailed us a complicated
list of directions at how to get in as no staff member would be there at 9pm.
They were a bizarre set of directions (thankfully we didn’t need as we changed
to an early bus) they went as follows:
As you may be arriving outside of our
reception hours (after 8 pm), we’re going to make both the front door and room
keys available to you. It’s a bit of an adventure, so you might want to print
this off to have at hand.
When you arrive at the front door, you will see a hollow combination lock. The
combination is 6834. Pull the black switch and it will open up and inside you’ll find the
key to the front door. Please ensure you replace the key and re-lock the box
after you open the door as there may be other guests arriving later.
Head up the stairs and open the second door (which is unlocked) and turn to
your left - you will see the white and blue reception desk. In front of the
reception desk is a small table with a stack of maps, a guest book and next to
it, a chair. And in the drawer on the left-hand side, you will find your room
key. There should be a list as well to let you know which room is yours. If you
arrive before 8 pm, you may disregard these instructions as we will be here to
greet you and check you in. Let me know if you have any questions, and good
luck!
Thanks, Adam
Friday
13th April 2012
Boarded
finally, went on the darkside of the ferry away from the bright lights, German
Thomas went up in the kids section and slept face down with a scarf around his
eyes. Treated ourselves to chicken burger, chips, coke and a kitkat.... hooray!
Awoke in the middle of the night
an could not see any other passengers, only to find nearly all of them asleep
on the floor opposed to using the reclining chairs. Awoke later in morning
about 7.30am, and there was a misty view of the large bay. A long train stretch
across the mainland through the mist, and small and tall stood on the end of
the ferry Titanic style on the 100th year anniversary and on Friday
the 13th.
Off the ferry and German Thomas
said goodbyes and that he was walking into town along the railroad tracks?? We
kept walking through the car park trying to hitchhike with our huge bags into
the town. Then Thomas re-appeared and told his actually he was gonna hitchhike
as well and started walking with us. We thought we’d never be shot of this guy,
and now cars would not stop as it looked like 3 people to fit in! We slowed
down enough to flag down a large 4x4 and told the woman we were not with him,
and got in. It was a first nations woman who drove us right to the greyhound
bus station in Prince Rupert, she pointed to the road out (where we’d seen deer
the other day) and told us she just seen a wolf there that morning.
The greyhound station opened at
8am, literally a minute after we arrived. The guyw as happy to hold our bags whilst
we went to Tim Hortons with the slow staff an the craggy fishermen. Back at the
station tow ait for the 10.15am bus to Prince George, then transfer down to
Vancouver arriving 12pm tomorrow. To our horror the little 65 year old Canadian
woman with the screwed up face and crew cut was there, doing her hair and
rustling her many bags. She started talking to tall one like a machine gun
“where you from, where you been, what you do, where you work, whats it like,
where you going?”. Barley letting tall one answer before asking the next. When
she tried the same with small one he turned around an ignored her, she called
“hey! Hey you!”, he just ignored her and left her huffing behind him. Even the
Greyhound desk clerk shook his head at her, when she machine gunned down some
other poor travellers or staff – on she went telling some poor old deer about
the discovery pass “you can get 7 days 14 days 30 days or 60 days it has an
expiry date and a start date and it is unlimited travel between those two dates
you can go anywhere and i do....”. Though the staff were just as ridiculous, as
we overheard a woman buying a ticket today and she asked why it was more than
the other day she arrived, only to be told it was weekend prices.... she said
this is Friday morning.... apparently that’s the weekend??
Got on the bus before the crazy
woman and sat in the nearest front seat much to her annoyance. The driver was
British from Portsmouth, and soon we knew all about him, he’d met his wife
online and so married into the country, just brought a house in Smithers but
she still lived in Vancouver, he also showed us his Portsmouth F.C. Sailor
tattoo and told us bad Irish jokes.... Before we even left Prince Rupert he
announced the coach was broke and pulled in to swap it for the still dirty bus
he’d only just drove in on that morning. The screwed up faced woman starting
shrieking about Friday the 13th Friday the 13th! Tall and
small helped in transfer the bags into the new bus, an before we left small one
suggested he looked in the trailer as well, “oh yeah, forgot there was a couple
of parcels in there too”. Infact at 2 other stops during the day he almost
forgot to drop off parcels.
It was pretty misty so not as
good a views as coming in. The driver did a droll British speech to the
passengers about how “if you get too hot.... take your coat off.... if you get
cold.... out your coat back on....if you have any problems... let your doctor
know about them or keep them to yourself....”. He also noted how for Friday the
13th we had 13 passengers.
He was replaced in Smithers by a
younger stocky driver, who was virtually mute. He made stops at places but
never said where we were or how long we had there. When the screwed up faced
woman started chatting to him he responded with only “hmmms” or one word
answers, until finally he rolled his eyes and got up and walked away into the
car park. Bus journey pretty un-eventful, other than the fact we were both
getting sick of these long haul trips – especially trying to use the chemical
bus toilet, which was like trying to urinate into some great blue soup that
smelt strangely of marzipan. Finally arrived in Prince Rupert after 8pm, have
to wait now until 11.15pm to change buses for Vancouver. Sat in the very greasy
cafe in the terminal to use there free wifi (which only works for small one not
tall one), eating very greasy chips and chicken infront of the big glass
windows – whilst passengers queue the other side of the glass gawping less than
a foot away from us as we eat. Roll on 11.15pm!!!!
Well to finish up the blog for
the day, we headed out to the supermarket opposite the depot and who got behind
us in the queue, none other than the crazy sweatshirt wearing, 65 year old
woman with the screwed up face. She
noticed us at the last minute and we ran.... Then back in the depot we sat in
the seats nearest our gate waiting for our bus to leave southbound in another
hour and a half. The woman came back and started shifting all her many many
bags right in front of the door, she saw tall and small sat by it and asked
where we were going? Tall one told her down to Vancouver, and she said well she
was going back to Prince Rupert. Tall one pointed out that she’d just come in
from there (it’s a 10 hour bus trip from Prince Rupert to Prince George which
had got in less than 2 hours ago!!), she said “yes I know!”. She then sat down
next to tall one who had made the mistake of acknowledging her. Small sat on
his tablet as if he was deaf and dumb, whilst the woman got a wall calendar out
of her bag and showed tall one a date with the words “86” written on it.
“That’s the Queens birthday!” she exclaimed, “I wrote it on the calander there
you see, she’s 86, can you believe it, she looks so well for 86!”. Tall one
(trying to read his book) made a hmmm noise, but she continued.... “Would do
you think of Kate?”. Tall one looked up wondering who Kate was, “I don’t know
her” he responded. “Well she’s been seeing him for a long time over ten years,
I would have dumped him by now that’s too long!”. Tall one kept his eyes on his
book as she went on and on, and occasionally he made a grunting noise to her,
“why does she have her hair so long iw onder it makes her look so old, she’d be
much better with short hair” (this is coming from her with a crew cut) “she
wears skirts much to short as well doesn’t she, don;t you think?, down to
here just below the knee”. Tall one had
had enough, he got up and pointed to the Gents and started backing away from
her, she continued to talk as if he was not walking away, “then there’s Charles
of course, he’s been around we all know that”. Tall one didn’t even know what
that meant, but by then he’d made it into the toilet and stood doing nothing
for 5 minutes hoping she’d wonder off. Thankfully not long after her bus was
called back to Prince Rupert, going the exact same 10 hours return to where
she’d just come from.
Small one noticed the bus driver
taking her back there was the bald driver called George who had taken us there
last Easter Sunday. He went and asked him what the deal was with that woman.
George laughed and said how she’s been doing it for years, all she does is go
back and forth back and forth on the buses with a discovery pass, he’d even
known her to start at one point and travel the day to get to Mackenzie, do her
laundry in the depot, then travel a day to get back to where she’d started. He
didn’t think she actually had a home at all.... complete and utter fruit cake.
Thursday
12th April 2012
Up
in the morning and small one lit the fire again (he likes lighting fires), to
finish drying the socks off. German was up saying how he had nothing to do
today, and kept hinting for us to invite him along to our day Kayaking...we
never did.
Walked to the Kayak station and
the lady came out just before 9am. Gave us gum boots, extra floats, tow rope,
water pumps, extra oars, covers.... we didn’t know where the hell all this junk
was gonna go. She then showed us the ropes on kayaking, steering and rudder use
etc. She said the small one looked nervous but competent. Small one was nervous
about going and had wanted to call the whole thing off. The lady took us to the
water edge and sent us in, small one took to it like a duck to water, no
problem at all, tall one was another matter. Rocking back and forth, he could
not balance the kayak, very slowly and shakily paddling his oar, too afraid to
even turn his head – only looking straight ahead. The lady called out
suggestions for him from the beach, but he could not hear a thing and could not
turn to look at her without slowly paddling the kayak around to face her head
on.
They headed off around the
nearest large island. Small one happy as a lark, tall one petrified of rocking
the kayak over into the dark abyss below. An hour later small one was ready to
throw in the towel on the whole day as tall one was still useless. They pulled
in on a slippery seaweed covered beach on the large Lina Island. Small one
urinated, tall one took some photos, then they headed off again – but this time
tall one was absolutely fine... no idea why.
Headed off on the woman’s
suggested route round three islands, down the edge of the large Lina Island to
three more islands. One of which she cheerily announced had a great native
story about how a tribesman ran away with the chiefs daughter, so the chief had
everyone killed on the island. It was amazing scenary, the endless dark water
of Skidgate Inlet was as smooth as silk, and the sun came out with a blue sky
and reflected everything like a mirror. We did not see another human face or
boat all day. Surrounded by nice little clusters of islands covered with pines,
and in the distant snow topped mountains.
Stopped maybe once every hour
for around ten minutes, where small one would urinate and tall one would take
more photos. At one of the three furthest island they found a lost little fish
on the beach flipping around, but he seemed to die once tall one put him back
in the water. They also found a star fish clinging to the beach, which small
one turned over with his foot. Loads of waterfowl and ducks, which fled whenever
they came near them.
Had our cold microwave pasties
for lunch. Were now both exhausted by around 2pm. The lady had told us low tide
does not finish until 3pm, then we can head back along the otherside of Lina
Bay – but warned us not to go earlier as it will just be 8 foot deep mud
(telling us a fisherman got stranded there trying to wade through, got stuck
then the tide came in and drowned him). Small one struggling now as we started
returning back along the southside of the island. We had not seen a single seal
of this seal colony she had said was on these three islands, then they all
started popping up around us. Little beady dog faces started popping up, could
have been 2, 3 or 4. Kept slipping to the surface, peering at us for a minute
then going under and re-surfacing somewhere else. Great to see, made our day.
After the seals we continued
along slowly, shattered. Backs aching, legs hurting, arms killing us. Was now
about 4.30pm when we got to the south island pass, and to our surprise the tide
was still not in, it just faded out to mud. What do we do?? It was a good 2
hours or more to go back the way we came, and we were just to tired. We made it
to the beach of the island (paddling in about half a foot of water), then
wondered up the beach to see if we could just carry the kayaks around the mud
and re-enter further up. The otherside of the mud it did clear up to water
again so went back for the kayaks to find them now floating in water.... the
tide must have risen almost a foot in that time. We started carrying one kayak
to the water the otherside of the island before we noticed that now the mud was
almost all gone. In the space of about 20 minutes there was now water leading
all the way through about a foot deep. Back into the kayaks and made it through
to the otherside. Small one thought he saw a small black bear cub along the
shoreline, but then again he had left his glasses at home.
The inlet opened out again into
the wide open waters, and we could see far far away the peninsula with the town
and the kayak depot. This was the hardest part of the day, another long hour of
hard hard paddling, both aching all over and tall one with cramp in one leg.
Finally made it back just before 6pm, that was almost 9 hours of kayaking! It
was an amazing day and experience, and all the better because it was hard work
for both of us.
We met up with the kayak lady
who first asked small one how many times tall one had fallen in? She obviously
hadn’t expected him to make it far after seeing his shaky start. She was then
nice enough to drive us back to the hostel. Small one being nice said that he
hoped her son would get better soon, and she made a grim remark about how that
wasn’t going to happen. Back in the hostel and a goodbye to the elderly couple
in reception. They warned us how there was a new German in the hostel with
Thomas, and this new one had all these black holes in his face and was full of
metal.... So we headed back to the hostel expecting a monster, but it was just
some quiet German lad with a pierced lip.
We heated our ham and cheese
sandwich, half a bowl of cornflakes each, half a boiled egg and made a great
cup of tea, after a good shower we started packing. Thomas asked how our day
was and then said that he wished he had done something like that today instead
of just the museum. The other lad (the new one) just sat there, not speaking,
not reading, doing nothing but staring at the back of Thomas laptop screen.
Finally we left with our backpacks around 7.30pm to hitchhike to the Ferry
Terminal. We walked for a good half an hour up the main road (its 6km to the
terminal and we weren’t spending $5 on another taxi!). Cars drove past and just
shrugged or shook their heads at us with all the bags. Finally a young lad
pulled in with a small green car and was happy to drive us in. His car was
covered with socks and jocks, and when talking about our travel history he
wanted to know “do they carry guns in Asia?”. Now sat int he terminal aching
from head to toe, needing a Kitkat, and waiting to board the ferry around
10.30pm to leave at Midnight.
Wednesday 11th April 2012
Small one prepared cereal, tea and boiled sausages (we had no oil) for breakfast. We then set out to walk to Skidgate (6-7km), passing numerous Bald eagles on the way. Nothing at all in Skidgate other than one takeaway, and a community hall raffling off tickets to Jasper along with a free spaghetti meal. Just outside the town we’d stopped for a coffee at a place called Jag’s Bean’s’Talk. Going inside it was literally somebody’s house, shoes off at the door, and into their kitchen which they’d erected a counter in the middle of. Had tea each as the coffees were 4.45 each.... Drank and got out, as Tall one did not like their ‘Canadian Breakfast Tea’. We then walked up the hill to do the 1 and a half hour loop track around Spirit Lake. It was good to get out into the big forest, few people around. Lots of big trees, though mostly fallen down into the dark waters of the two small lakes. Headed back very tired, and took a few attempts to get picked up hitch hiking, from a man with little conversation – his main point being that he didn’t know anything as he’d just moved there. Dropped off at the hostel and paid the nice little Canadian woman. Invited in the back for a cup of Australian English Breakfast tea by the husband, limping around on his bad hip. The tea was nice enough, and had a long chat about Australia and Canada, and how he’d get a pension in the unlikely event of her dying first. Back to Hostel for sausages and pasta. The german fella had left 5am to hitchhike the 107km up to Massett and another 107 km back, he just got in as well.
Tuesday 10th April 2012
The ferry was more comfortable and substantial than we had thought, we slept alright through the night. Though strangely the nearest bathroom had a huge window with no curtain or blind which reached down to the floor, and so if you stood or sat going to the toilet any passing boat or anyone in the harbour could see you clearly. Slept on the reclining chairs in a dark corner after moving away from the brightly lit kids area. The loner with the camp gear stretched out on the floor in a sleeping bag.
Was awoken by the announcement that we were half an hour away from docking. It was still dark, and so a shame that we saw nothing of the harbour view at either end of the trip. Disembarked and stood in darkness by the terminal, unsure of how to get to town. The hostel had told us there was a shuttle, but the ticket desk then told us there were none anymore. We ordered a taxi (asking the loner camping gy if he needed a ride, he spoke no English so we just waved). The taxi had no meter running and he charged us $15 for what was only a few kilometres away through a dark, road in the woods.
The hostel had told us to just go round back and intot he hostel until they were up. It was a B&B, and in the back car park was a small free standing cabin which kinda f said Backpackers, He tried the door, it was open. Inside was a wood burner, some cosy furniture, small kitchen, small tv – we weren’t sure if we were actually just walking into somebody’s private house. Still, we sat down at the breakfast table for a few hours. Hunger finally over came us, and we walked up the main street, now in daylight. It was a fantastic view across the bay, little pine covered islands came out the still waters, mist was rolling in across the forest behind us and the water infront. All the grocery stores and the cafes we found were terribly expensive, so we brought a pizza and a microwave pasta for breakfast. The guy in the Reception came down, he was a very old Australian man who had not long got married, very hard to speak to, could not seem to finish a sentence, and then left very long awkward pauses. Finally away from him and back into the cabin/hostel (he was sending his wife down to us). In the cabin the only other guest was now up, a young German guy on his own. He started chatting away chirpily, and then started to be a bit too over helpful. Telling us when our kettle had boiled, even though we could see the thing a few feet away and see it clicking off. Offering us his own tea bags and advice. People can’t help but try and mother us, it becomes irritating despite their good intentions. Then after he left the wife came in full of questions about where we were from, where we were going (small one loves to answer these), then a middle aged man with a very tight t-shirt, large gut, died ginger hair came in. He seemed a bit confused and so were we, but apparently we was working there. The woman left him to it, and he wa sin and out of the three rooms. He came to us and asked how many people slept in that room last night. We said we did not know we just got here this morning, “yes, but how many people slept in there, 1 or 2?”. “We don’t know we got here this morning, and they had already left...”. It was hard work. Finally he left.
It was a warm sunny day, with patchy clouds. So far still no rain that was promised. Small one made an appointment with the medical centre, which she confusingly said would either cost $100 or $34, but could not specify which yet?? Small one went back for his 1pm appointment while Tall one sat in the information centre for an hour and a half. Small one was condescended by the nurse who asked the problem, he told her tonsillitis, and she said “we’d better just put down soar throat”. He then had to wait a good half an hour, while she kept condensing him. Finally when he saw the doctor, the doctor had brought a student with him. The student was then left to diagnose on his own, when the doctor came in he checked the students notes saying “no no no.... you can tell that from the patients bad breath.... that’s wrong as well”. He then deleted the page of text the student had written up and just wrote three lines. Small one finally got his prescription and left.
Walked down the road looking for a car rental to drive up the north of the island. This lying or useless woman kept telling us different prices, starting at 20 cents charge per km, but ended up on 25km, she added up the approx cost with insurance, rental fee, KM charges and petrol costs for our day trip at just over $100, we worked it out ourselves more realistically (and correctly) to be more like $160. We checked out a Kayak rental which was only $25 a day, the woman had to run to take her son back to hospital, but we could go tomorrow around the bay – the only worry she had was the tides, if they were out we could get caught in 3 foot mud.
Back to hostel via a $50 food shop, no German thankfully. Still a great sunny, warm day.
Small one BBQ the chicken, and then lit the wood burner, sending us all to sleep.
Monday 9th April 2012
Had a bit of a lie on, before leaving about 10.30am to make a free coffee in the hostel. Unfortunately two middle aged women came and sat down with us, one of which started making small one’s cup of tea for him – he had to interrupt and insist on making it himself. They then wanted to know how long we’d been travelling, where from, where to???? Back to the wrong quickly, grabbed the bags and heaved them into a small locker the cleaner provided us with, then went out to explore Prince Rupert.
After being warned that it rains 250 days a year here, we arrived in great weather yesterday and had great blue skies for most the day. Headed up and followed a trail of various Totem Poles across the town. Found a Hospital for small one to ask about another prescription for tonsillitis as it had now moved over to the other side, despite having just finished a course of penicillin. He asked the receptionist how much for a consultation, and she told him $700... small one said it could wait and left walking past a strange dishevelled man standing outside in nothing but thin gown.
Walk down along the harbour front to Cow Bay, much more scenic than the somewhat run down, shabby buildings of the main town. There seemed to be little or no tourists around, and all residents were either First Nation natives or craggy looking fishermen. Cow Bay was very nice, picturesque view with fishing boats in the foreground with colour craft and tea shops, in the background sea planes flew over snow topped mountains surrounded by tall pine trees. We also spotted many Bald Eagles flying over head, and a lone spotted seal in the bay.
We then walked down the highway to the Ferry Terminal to see if it was walkable. Tall one was carrying 60 pounds in weight in his two bags and said no, though later small one forced him to walk it anyway. On the way down they were caught by suprise by the sight of a large deer sat in the tall grass just feet from the roadside. They watched it a while and presumed it had been hit by a car, then they noticed that a few feet away was sat another one.... so presumed that this was either a very unlucky road for deer, or they were just very used to people.
Back to the hostel and picked up the bags, snagged by the old ladies again, but managed to get out in tact within 15 minutes. Found a cheap restaurant to eat in, one claiming to be Vietnamese and Canadian food. They offered us an enormous menu (reminding us of our trip o South East Asia a year ago) and then the staff sat down to watch America’s Strictly Come Dancing. We had burger/pork chops and milkshakes, then left for the arduous walk to Ferry Terminal.
Got to the terminal about 7pm, we were the only one’s there for a good hour. A strange (presumably English) lone traveller showed up, complete with saucepans and roll tent on his back. Then came along a couple of enormous First Nations women carrying the smallest baby we had ever seen. Boarded about 9.30am, and small one and tall one hunted around the lobby for any seats with power points, only found 2 places, either in the restaurant or one under a TV by the Kids area (but with reclining seats). Went for the Kids area and prayed that no family would come near us. There we sit now under a mirrored ceiling, typing this up and drinking our flask of Barrys Tea.
Sunday 8th April 2012
Small one went for a shower in the Prince George Hostel, but was accosted by the big Biker owner who came out wearing a silky Robe and accompanied y a little ugly dog. He kept asking if small one needed a towel even though small one had one wrapped around himself. After the shower he came out and the owner was still there, but at least was now clothed, but in Biker Leathers. He told small one if he ever needed help anywhere in the whole country to phone him, as he has friends everywhere.... Small one ran back to the room, but then remembered he had to fill the flasks with hot water for the bus trip today to Prince Rupert. Back into the kitchen only to find NO KETTLE?? Luckily (or unluckily) the owner was there and boiled water for him in a saucepan?? This took forever and so small one was trapped into a boring conversation, whilst tall one sat un-wrapping a giant chocolate cat for Easter Sunday (which was originally a gift for Mary and Rolland, but to hell with them).
Down to the bus station for 8am (via a Tim Hortons Breakfast and supplies for lunch). The cashier was a bit awkward asking our bags to be weighed, telling small one to take his sleeping bag off his backpack (only for him to reattached it after), telling us not to fold our passes like we had, and then saying that we can’t travel today on our Discovery Passes as it was a ‘black day’?? It would be a black day for us if we were stuck here, we thought. Finally she changed to, as its a public holiday (or black day?) paying passengers get priority, so if the bus fills up we’d have to be bumped to another day... great. We sat in horror watching the station fill up, but the bus never filled completely. Tall one finished his Tim Hortons coffee and threw the cup away without checking the ‘roll up the rim to win’. Five minutes later some rough woman on our bus went over to the bin and dug it out and checked it herself, while tall and small sat ready to rugby tackle her should she get the car.
Got on the bus (our bald drivers name was George). George pulled over half way into the trip as someone was clearly smoking on the back of the bus (everyone could smell it), no one owned up so on we went... Pretty straight forward trip, the weather was quite warm (very little snow left now), sun was right on us and the air con strangely only worked on one side of the bus (not our side). The scenery between Smithers and Prince Rupert was very impressive. It was nice to see lakes and rivers thawed, and so see the mountains reflected in them. The woods looked deep with massive pines, and thick with green moss and brown swamp waters. Did not see any wildlife though, other than some of the native passengers. Did see a few signs about the highway being called ‘Highway of Tears’ (as per Mary and Rollands story of many hitchhikers being killed and the killer still not found), there was also a large sign saying “HITCHHIKING DON’T RISK IT” and had a bizarre haunting illustration of a girl sticking her thumb out surrounded by ghosts coming out of the road and woods.
Arrived in Prince Rupert around 8pm. Station by the large harbour so got our first glimpse of what was presumably the ocean, but will see open waters tomorrow on the ferry (first time we’ve seen the ocean in Canada). 15 minute walk up to the hostel which was full of all these cosmopolitan lovies drinking coffee, thought we’d walked into a coffee shop. Pressed the buzzer to be let in and a foreign man was telling us what rooms he had free, we kept telling him we had a booking, and finally he let us in and came down. He seemed to be Russian of some sort, and finally gave us the room – which was actually pretty plush, with a TV and very clean looking.