Saturday 9th
February 2013
Woke up early and drove
the van to Burger King for a final half price breakfast from their
useless staff. Tall one ordered and they were useless, some poor
Indian girl (obviously new) screwed up his simple order of 2 Yogurts
and 1 Regular and 1 Large Cappuccino. After the order had been sorted
out, they still noticed back in the van that the 'Large' coffee was
only half full, but they couldn't be bothered going back in. Sat on
the beach with breakfast and used the free Telecom phone box wifi. As
there was lots of people up the beach Small one was reluctant to
brush his teeth and spit out on the grass, especially when there was
some fella in green shorts (with a green towel??) standing a few
spots up staring down his way. So he sat holding the toothpaste spit
in his mouth until the fella walked back to his car, only for the
fella to then come back brushing his own teeth on the grass anyway.
We then systematically discard our large garbage (bed blankets,
quilts and pillows) in the small public bins around the Mount. By
then it was time to return the Van to the depot....
First time we drove past
at 9am the gates were closed so had drive round a long loop on the
dual carriageway. Waited in a layby for 5 minutes giving them enough
time to open them before driving up for a second time when the gate
was finally opened. Drove in as planned with the damage side facing
away from the building and parked up down the end where there was one
fella hosing down vans. Small one got out and opened the boot up to
get his bags out, Tall one opened the damaged side door and left it
open while he got his bags out. Small one asked the fella with the
hose if he was the only person here, and was told he was, and walked
over with the keys for him. He asked us how the trip was (he had
fixed our water tap the day we picked up the van), and we gave him
all our rehearsed positive remarks about the trip, the van and our
future booking. After all that he never checked round the van, but
just glanced inside (via the open boot) to see that the place wasn't
torn to ribbons. There was some other fella waiting to be served so
we said goodbye and thankyou and ran like hell with our enormous
backpacks on....
The bus stop off the
Highway and back into Tauranga was right outside their shop, so
skipped that one and walked up the highway to the next one (missing
the immediate next bus). Waited for 20 minutes by the stop and
finally felt safe once it arrived and we go on and headed into
Tauranga. Stored our bags for free in the I-Site and then (needing a
goood drink after a nervous morning) headed for the nearest Pub.
Went to the Corner Stone
(where Tall and Small had gone to for a drunken Pub quiz back in
March 2009) and at 9.30am we entered as the barmaid asked, “are you
here for breakfast”, small one said, “are you serving drink?”,
“yes” she said, “that is breakfast” he replied. Small one had
a beer, Tall one had a Bourbon and they sat in the same booth as
before. After small one's 'very clever' remark about a liquid
breakfast, we then ordered a proper breakfast each from the menu. Our
final decent meal before heading for Wellington skint.
Bus turned up half an
hour late and we left at about 11.45am. The driver was one miserable
bastard, getting very snappy with the (admittedly stupid) questions
from the foreign passengers, “this Napier?”, “NO! I said stay
on the bus”.... “I change here?”.... “NO! I've told you to
stay on the bus” etc etc. The bus then drove us to all the places
we'd just spent some $1700 and 3 weeks driving. In to Rotorua and
down to Taupo first. On the way to Taupo a foreign Backpacker on the
bus made a phone call to book accommodation, reading out loudly down
the mobile phone her credit card number for the booking, so that the
whole bus could hear. Arrived in Taupo half an hour late, to be told
our connecting bus to Wellington had broken down and would be another
half an hour. When it showed up there was confusion getting on, as
people queued to give the large Mauri driver their bags, but other
girls were just getting straight on without giving their reservation
numbers. The driver seemed to have a woman helper with him though who
sat at the front of the bus and took all his numbers for him.
Once on the bus the
driver announced that he was doing this route for the first time and
was from the Northland where they are more intelligent and put bus
stops where you can find them and so we may struggle to find the
right place to stop on the way and if you know where the bus stop is
can you please come up and help me. This made us wonder why he had a
woman helper with him at all, as surley she would have known?? We
drove down pretty past, and did not arrive until 9pm, and during that
6 and a half hour drive he gave us no break to buy food or drinks.
Small one asked twice to go to a shop to buy water which just
produced grumpy responses from the driver. Drove through the
Tongariro Crossing, where we had our best view of it (as it was a
clear day). The downstairs bus toilet was blocked and people had just
kept on using it until now it was over flowing and leaking out the
side of the bus as well as over the floor, so that was locked not to
be used again. At least there was a nice sunset over the bay as we
drove up the coastal road into the City. Arriving into Wellington
just before 9pm he asked on the MIC if anyone knew where the bus stop
was in the City, and some young lad had to go up and tell him where
to go.
Thankfully and finally
off the bus we had a heavy, long half an hour treck across the City
to our Hostel called 'Cambridge Hotel'. The City was mad busy in the
centre streets, alive with noisy bars, lights, people roving the
streets, music and buskers. With the amount of Asians about and with
the warm night climate it was a bit like being in Thailand... ?!
Found our Hotel/Hostel, an enourmous old building (form 1883) with a
somewhat rough bar downstairs. The Hostel felt a lot more like a
Hotel, huge reception, with large open hallways, Sofas and seating at
top of staircases, and a medieval elevator with a sliding door,
followed by a classic style sliding metal bar door to close before
you went up. The private room was costing us $320 a week ($23 a night
each) was a curious thing. There was a large flat screen TV which had
Sky Sports and ESPN sports channel, which made Small one very excited
about Celtic matches (and made Tall one groan). There was a sink,
large fridge, kettle with free coffee, milk, tea and chocolate. But
everything was curiously high, the table top for the kettle was as
high as small one's shoulders, and looking into the mirror he could
only see his fringe and that was it. The view from the window opened
to some very noisy air vents and also the sound of the bar and
surrounding night clubs filled the room all night. So not sure if
we'll stick or not, we will see how we go.
Friday 8th
February 2013
Had some God awful
sausages for breakfasts, the taste staining our mouths for the rest
of the day. Used the campgrounds 'hot showers' by inserting a 50cents
coin half a mile away from the shower itself, then for Tall one to
find (as he was the first to use it that day) that out of the 6
minutes you get the first 2 minutes is cold as it's trying tow arm
up. We then re-packed our bags and tidied and cleaned the van. Spent
half an hour looking at the dent/scratch and our patch work saying
“what are we going to do?”.
Headed off back to
complete the full circuit to the Mount. An hour and a half's drive
discussing every possibilty of how to return a damaged van, whether
to cover it up or not, how to stand between him and the van when he
comes out, and what we'd say if he noticed a dodgy patchwork. Small
one on edge for the rest of the day, whislt tall one was now at ease
with it having spent all of yesterday feeling ill about the subject
(now he just felt ill from the sausages).
Up the highway saw our
familiar Mount looming ahead. First stop was K-Mart then on to the
Caravan Park where we saw Sue and Lisa, a brief summary of our trip,
picked up post (our Onecard from Countdown supermarket has arrived
after almost 4 months!), then a goodbye (with another teary eyed
Sue). Then celebrated the end of our trip by stopping in the Cottage
Cafe Tea Rooms near the Pacific Coast Hostel. Sat down in these
enourmous Garden chairs in the sunny backyard with our $8 Englissh
Breakfast tea, complete with little doiley over the milk jug, and
scones with cream and jam. Then small one's Irish friend Fiona (who'd
he'd not seen in four years) joined us in this sber, tranquil setting
and didn't hold back on using the word “fuck” in every sentence.
The two little old ladies running the tea room must have been curious
as to why we'd met up there. We left Fiona and then drove out to
Kulia Park (overlooking the Harbour by the Ducks Nuts Hostel in
Tauranga). Small one sat trying to doze having nightmares about
returning the vvan, whilst tall one tried to read and watch the old
men trying to wind surf or fly kites. We had decided to drop the van
back and leave the sliding side door open covering half the damage),
and to talk generously about how happy we were with the trip and how
we'll be bookingit again for 3 weeks in April for the South Island.
Just in case though small one phoned Ireland and cancelled his Irish
Credit Card (which they held no file), Tall one phoned the UK and
cancelled his UK credit card (which they'd text the number to Paul
for to pay for the van) and also drew out all the cash from their NZ
debit Bank account (the card details they'd given them for the
initial deposit), so essentially changing our identities all because
of this poxy dent, just inc ase they tried to charge us down the line
or on site tomorrow when we dropped it off.
Down through Tauranga
that evening, Christo / Froggie drove past us (who we'd brought and
re-sold that awful big car from) not looking to happy when he spied
us. Went to Wendy's fast food outlet where Tall and Small had eaten
for the first time back in April 2009. Looked exactley the same, and
we wolfed down an enourmous Baconator with Mushrooms burger with
large fries and a huge Strawberry cream shake, which we regretted
later. Now it was dark we looked for a place to sleep for the night,
drove the length of the Mount Maunganui beach and found half a dozen
campervans and large Rvs strung out in the free parking. At one site
a party was raging on the beach with bottles and young Backpackers
right next to a Mighty Campervan with an old coule sat outside in the
middle of it all, looking like they were loving it. Finally parked
under the tree by the entrance to Small one's Flour Mill next to an
RV.
Thursday 7th
February 2013
Awoke and left the camp
ground before the toilet inspectors came. Headed around the East Cape
and stopped in Tokomaru Bay for breakfast. Essentially all the bays
and tiny tiny 'towns' were the same for the whole East Cape Trip –
lovely rugged and deserted beaches, with a few ramshackle houses and
maybe one local shop, no petrol stations or supermarkets to be seen.
On our map we were looking for a waterfall walk and never found it,
then we were looking for a Historic Church and never found it, it
seems they are also lacking in decent sign posts as well.
A breif rest stop at
Oruaiti Beach to stretch our legs and get some air. Going a little
stir crazy in the van today, going over the problem with the van
damage which we are going to have to solve when we bring it back day
after tomorrow. Tall one is all for the honesty policy by telling
them when we arrive that theirs a bit of a scratch and dent on the
side door and we don't know how did it (which is the slighty
dishonest part of the honesty policy)... however this may result in
him saying fine, as per your contract your liable for the first $1200
of damage, but he may also say thanks for letting me know it's only
minor and you guys have had it for 3 weeks and are only poor
Backpackers, be off with you both...??? Small one was more for Option
2, which was to keep spraying the chip and crack with the car white
spray paint from the Super Cheap Auto store, and hope he doesn't see
it when it is returned, then cancel our credit card he has on file
and not answer the phone.... however if he does see it we can deny
all knowledge (as we were present when the previous hirers returned
it and we took it straight away), but he may be more pissed off by
the fact that we'd hidden the damage after he'd been so good to us
giving us a discoutn and free beers. The problem has driven us mad
all day, and very ten minutes tall and small would turn to each other
and announce, “what are we going to do?”.
Drove down Highway 35
towards Opotiki, and a fantastic lookout over Whituare Bay, where the
waters were all turqupise blue below us and right out to White Island
on the horizon (where the trip began some 20 days ago). Stopped for
photos on the beach below, a beach which permission is granted to the
public by Mauri land right owners. Through Opotiki to use their dodgy
library wifi and pay 50cents to use their pay public toilet which is
manned by TWO ladiies in high viz tops. Finally on to Whakatane which
brings us essentially full circle on our trip. More free wifi from
the phone box, no Tea Room for an afternoon break (Tall one wanted a
cup of tea in a proper cup??), and a brief food shop and more spray
paint from Super Cheap Auto.
Up the coast a bit more
and to the Matata Campground for $6 each. Some forty sites, but only
one shower for everyone.... There we watched the Pukeko birds
surrounding our van, pulling grass out the ground with their large
red beaks, then holding the grass stem in their foot whilst they knaw
what they want from the bottom of it. Tall one then used some $3
childs painting kit to re-tone the Car spray paint a bit darker to
match the van and repainted the damage. It looks 'better' than it
did, but certainly not 'good' Will sleep on it and see what we think
tommorrow morning. Lamp chops for dinner.
Wednesday 6th
February 2013
Tried to touch up the dent
in the van with some car paint, but looked like we'd used tippex. We
then tried feeding bannana to some of the Black Swans who didn't look
to pleased about the taste. Drove north to Gisborne and parked up at
the I-Site, apparently it's ANOTHER public holiday today so half of
the town is closed. As we were parked outside using the wifi the
Italian couple walked past on their way inside and said hello. Then
off to Gisborne swimming pools to pay $1 entry and 20 cents to use a
hot shower for 4 minutes. Back to the I-Site and paid $5 to play
their 18 hole Mini Golf in the rain. After that sat and did our
laundry in a laundrette along with a Mauri family on their weekend
outing to wash their clothes. Before leaving stopped at Cook's
Landing Reserve, where Captain Cook first landed on New Zealand
shores back in Oct 1769. The reserve wasn't much cop nowadays though,
it was just a logging factory with a weird stone monument in the
middle. Past a couple of statues related to the landing and then up
the coast along the very black sandy beaches. Drove for an hour up
the East Cape, stopping at Tolaga Bay's Longest Wharf in the country.
Finally fown a long hill to Anaura Bay camping, which had advertised
that you can only stay if you have your own loo as they provide none
– but we managed to stay anyway, as nature provided our toilet. Was
a lovely spot right by a large bay which overlooked a pyriamd shaped
island off in the blue waters.
Tuesday 5th
February 2013
Rained all night. Drove
through the mud to get out in the morning. Headed on to Hastings in
the rain, found that everywhere in Hawkes Bay wanted you to pay and
display for parking. Stopped in to the Rotten Apple Backpackers we'd
booked to come back to this Saturday for apple picking work. Rang the
bell and this fella came down, not too friendly or helpful. When we
said we had a booking his responce was, “a booking, nah, you
sure?!”, then when we asked about fruit work to expect and said we
didn't have are own car, he said “ahh well that's a problem
then...”. So didn't fill us with too much confidence, it didn't
help the day was miserable and cold with rain so put us off being in
that town in general anyway, especially for weather dependant work.
Drove north the 20km to Napier, stopping to phone Tall One's mother
as it was her Birthday and she'd also just come out from a back
operation.
Napier was a much nicer
spot (despite the rain), the Art Deco buildings were more prominent,
and had a nice Marine Parade road up the coast. Drove up to Bluff
Hill lookout, and went for a walk in the rain and fog holding a mug
of coffee. Back down into town and past the Par2 Mini Golf that Small
one had played on his road trip just over 4 years ago. Asked how work
was in a few backpackers in this town, and all similar (though more
cheerful) responces – that there are no pickups you need your own
transport, but some contractors may do pickups but don't know which
or if very often..... Though they did all say that the season was
literally about to kick off and be a big one, so in that sense lots
of work – if only we could sort a ride and put up with the down
days from bad weather....??
After how nice Wellington
was we figured we might cancel our bus and booking to Hastings, and
change to go to the City where we may stand a lot more chance of more
substantial work, which would not be rained off or need a ride in
for. Still waiting to hear back from the Corkman in regard to our
sponsorship (after saying he wanted to sumbit within 12 days of
speaking to us back in Oct 2012, it's now february and the paperwork
is still with them) so in that sense may be better to get more
consistent work as we may be here for a good few months yet.... We
tried the Napier libary to research online about Wellington
accomodation and work prospects. The only sockets we could find to
plug in was in the child's section, so sat on small chairs surrounded
by crayon drawings only to find that the wifi was $4 for 1 hour.
Opted for McDonalds instead, and again had a lot of problems logging
in – there must have been another 20 people there on laptops so the
wifi was being sicked dry. Literaly after one fella next to us logged
off, one of us was able to log on, but not the other.....
Parked up outside the YHA
and then paid $5 for 24 hours wifi – then stayed there for as long
as the battery lasted. Managed to research and book weekly rate
accomodation in a private room in Wellington for this saturday
(though they are booked out 1-2 march so may have to move for
them....familiar story) then changed our bus to go to Wellington
instead of Hastings. Three hours later left and drove north to a free
doc site at Lake Tutira. Fumbling around in the dark rain and mud to
get to the toilets, trying to avoid a family of Black Swans who
insisted of staying up all night and wondering around our van.
Monday 4th
February 2013
Lots of rain this morning.
Drove into Masterton and went to the town library to use their wifi,
though had to pay $1 per hour to use their electrical points. Tried
then to put the filthy van through a car wash, but a BP garage run by
a group of Indian men told us in a confusing manner that they would
not let us put such a big van through, despite the fact that it
fitted under the heigh restriction bar. Then we spent too much of a
Pizza Hut and drove north through Woodville. Stopped about 80k south
of Hastings in a small, strange place called Norsewood. Found a basic
camp ground on the road map, which was a well mowed field with a
fairly clean flushable toilet with paper (better kept up than the DOC
sites). There was a small sign that read it was $2 per night and to
pay in Norsewood town shop. Drove back to Norsewood, which was like a
kitch ghost town. Topped up Diesel using the shop's small gas pump on
the road, and then paid the old man $2 – he didn't take our name or
rego, just put the $2 in the till and sent us on the way without even
a reciept. Back to the campground and Tall one filled the wash basin
from the tap and gave the van a rough clean to get at least most of
the dirt off. The Italian couple we met last night then pulled in
about an hour later, and pitched up for the night as well. It started
to rain, but we were comfortable enough and had saved more money.
Sunday 3rd
February 2013
Heading down to Wellington
stopped off in a McDonalds down the coast in a small town. Glad to
find it had electic sockets inside to charge our laptops and go
online. Treated ourselves to their $7 breakfasts, and sat in the
freezing cold seating area, only to find that the wifi didn't work.
When we asked the cashier she saod, “oh it never works properly
here”. Small one almsot asked for the money back on our meals,
though tall one had already devoured his. Then to get his own back on
the poor, unsuspecting girl behind the counter, small one started
phoning the branch number there for McDonalds and hanging up when she
answered.... doing this about ten times in a row and mildy annoying
the girl, that sure showed her for having a weak wifi signal....
Arrived in Wellington in
glorious sunshine. Set off down the harbour after happily getting
free parking on Sundays. Small one didn't see much scenary as hhis
nose was in his free CBD wifi on his phone. Had a good coffee, saw
the Beehive building, and walked up the pedesrtianised shopping
street – passing a fair few homeless people. One beggar was a
drippy looking English lad who had a cardboard sign that read, “from
England, will 'rap' for money”.... poor bastard. The other tramp we
saw had a sign that said he had mental issues, and he was dozily
rocking backwards as his arms were covered with blood whislt next to
him people were sat outside in the sun drinking their lattes.
Back to the van and drove
past some quite nice City Beaches, then finally up to the top of
Moutn Victoria for some very nice views of the City and Bays. Drove
down the hills to Owhiro Bay, the streets in that area are a virtual
rat maze to find your way through. Trying to plan a quick route on
the map resulted in many roads that lead nowehere and having to
double back, retracing our route on the spaghetti like suburb roads.
From Owhiro Bay set off on a 2-3 hour return Coastal walk to Sinclair
Head. Though we never realized we got to Sinclair Head and kept
walking for an extra 20 minutes. Didn't see any of the advertised
seals, though we had also missed the sign that said they are there
May-Oct. Was a nice walk regardless, flat stony road through some big
quarry like cliffs, and rugged rocky bays. A trip to Pak N Save
(which we had spotted from the top of Mt Victoria) and then through
some more dizzy confusing little roads to find the top of Wellington
Botanical Gardens to see the cliff tram go up and down a bit.
Out of Wellington and
heading back North up the East coast, on our final few days of the
trip. After Upper Hutt the highway went through Pakuratahi forest,
which had some awesome forest mountain views as the roads twisted and
turned through the many corners. Passing a rest area we stopped to
get photos to see a girl had pulled over and was cereonously puking
her guts up over the edge of the cliff.
After an hours drive
arrived at our free DOC campsite outside of Featherston. It was about
5km of Gravel road to get there, but surrounded by nice hills, forest
and a river down a short walk. Though there were quite a lot of cars
with loud music, booze and vey big dogs on leads about we stuck it
out and they thankfully all left around 9pm, leaving us with one
elderly couple in a van. Small one cooked some pork chops and pasta,
and we ate whilst watching a Kereru (New Zealand Pigeon) eating whole
leaves in the tree opposite us. Small one renamed it the “Irish
Pigeon” due to its green, white and orange colors. After dinner we
realized how filthy we both were and so braved a trip down to the
river, through all the sand flies to bathe in the swimming hole. Was
both a bit tentative going in at first, but once we got into the
river was actually a great experience to be in there washing.
Returned refreshed to the van for a good nights sleep. Though went
back out to speak to a friendly young Italian couple who'd just
arrived today up from the South Island, in their battered campervan.
Saturday 2nd
February 2013
Headed off early, stopped
in Palmerston North to use their free library wifi and buy some spray
paint toh ide the scratches and dents we'd made on the side of the
van. Detour outside of Palmerston North to Manawatu Gorge. A steep
loop track in the sun, but a few good views overlooking the river,
though by now we've seen enough forest walks to not be surprised by
much else. Down the highway further and just south of Levin was
another free DOC campground, Waikawa in Tararua Forest. Didn't look
like many Rangers stopped by, toilets were a mess, no toilet paper,
stacks of garbage piled up by the entrance.... other than that a ncie
enough spot, and a free nights stay.
Friday 1st
February 2013
Small one cooked sausages
this morning, then we head off to drive around the Tongariro
Crossing. As Mt Tongariro had been erupting since August half the
track was closed – small one had only done half the track before so
looked like he wouldn't complete it this time either. Then we found
out they'd closed the road off to private cars (as it was so busy),
so now the only way in is to pay $35 each for a return shuttle! We
were too cheap to do that, and too much in pain from the Taranaki
climb, so gave the crossing itself a miss. Instead drove around the
outskirts looking into the foggy plains surrounding the Mountains
(couldn't see any Mountains at all). Until we drove up into the two
ski field villages (Whakapapa the first one), and got above the
clouds, where at least we did get a view of some of the Mountain
Ranges. We pulled in on one corner to take a photo only to find
ourselves surrounded by Japanese tourists who seemed more interested
in our van than the view, even peering into our back windows.
Back to the highway and
small one saw a sign for Mountain Flights and insisted we pulled in.
He priced the flights at $115 each for 15 minutes or $225 each for
half an hour around the Mountains. He was very keen for it, but Tall
one could not believe how he was too tight to pay $30 for a shuttle
(or $30 for the Gondola up the Mountain in Whakapapa) but would pay
over $400 for the two of us on a short flight?? Thankfully it was too
cloudy for him to fly this morning anyway so kept driving quickly
before it cleared. Stopped at the giant carrot in Ohakune, then sat
in their library on the wifi for over an hour. Then up to Turoa
skifields, a long up hill drive on roads which had a sudden ragged
edge over looking a sudden drop. At the top of both these skifields
this time if year was a bit surreal, there was all these cosy little
cabins but sat on top of this dreary rocky rubble – opposed too the
pristine snow in the winter. To save gas small one drove in neutral
for the 19km downhill.
Headed south towards
Palmerston North, stopping in Vinegar Hill campground. They actually
had indoor showers, and apparently a caretaker would collect the $15
per 2 persons site – who we never saw. Wasn't the quietest of
places though as there were a few large tent groups who had lights
blazing and music blaring. Small one cooked Pork Chops though....
Thursday 31st
January 2013
Woke early and had a look
up the scenic lookout spot. Was a good view of the Tongariro Crossing
in the middle of a foggy sunrise. Kept driving and made a stop up the
side of Lake Taupo where we had breakfast next to a lot of garbage
and spot sin the grass were drivers had urinated.
Made it into Taupo, Tall
one went to the cinema to see Django Unchained, whilst small one sat
in the car in the blistering heat, as we weren't sure how long we
could park in that spot (poor signage like everywhere else). Drove
just north of Taupo and walked around the Craters of the Moon for $6
each. The ticket lady was quite condescneing repeadelty telling us
that it is very important that we do not go off the path.... We still
ached from the Mountain hike and so walked like a pair of cripples
around the pathway, with scenary of more smoking holes and bushes. On
to the Honey Hive which was closed and a lady claimed to be too busy
to take our photograph. After a brief stop at Huka Falls, a Pak N
Save shop and another lookout at the Lake we headed down to Tongariro
National Park.
Found a Free DOC campsite
in Kaimanawa Reserve. Drove down a gravel slope to find a small
clearing with two vans already parked up. Two British couples, both
men called Mike.... making this camp site have 3 quarters of the men
named Mike. Soon a small Guitar and a Manadalin were out and two
Mike's had a bit of a session, whilst this Mike (tall one) and small
one made up part of the audience. Was a good night, despite the sand
flies and despite Tall one breaking his rental camping chair and
having to sit on a towel in a bin bag on a dirty log. The nights sky
was bright and clear with stars. Then a Ranger turned up, the first
Ranger we'd ever seen check out a Camp Site, but this was a free one
for the first time so no money to collect? Went to bed after 10pm, to
be awoken later by cars pulling in, one of them a police car. The
cops got out scanning the ground with their torches, as 2-3
campervans were behind them. We presume that they foudn them camping
somewhere they shouldn't and so got escorted to the free camp ground.
Wednesday 30th
January 2013
Awoke at 4.30am to find
out front door unlocked and open, not sure how or why. Set off for
North Egmont Visitors Centre where the track to the Summit of Mount
Taranaki (aka Egmont) begins. Sun was on its way up as we drove up
the dark small lane to the centre, on the way we past a young
backpacker hitchiking and picked him up. He was called Jonas from
Austria, sleeping in an old railway car at the back of
'Volca-No-View' cafe up the road and had planned on walking the 8km
to the start of the walk, doing the walk then walking back?? Arrived
in car park around 6am and Jonas went straight up ahead of us while
we had breakfast. We left for the walk at 6.30am, heading up the
start as the sun was coming up over the blanket of clouds on the farm
and town lands below. For our whole walk to the summit we walked
either just infront or just behind a nice enough french couple. The
french girl seemed to be struggling as the boyfriend stood patiently
waiting now and again. The first hour and a half of the walk was zig
zagging up a steep gravel road (road access for Rangers only) until
we got to the huts and only toilet for over night campers. Then half
an hour going up some steep exhausting wooden steps. Then the worst
section was about an hour walking up a steep gravel slope, with this
loose gravel (or scree as the Information Centre woman called it),
which would roll undert your feet as you tried to walk up it. When
the scree/gravel ended there was some large snow drifts laying about
the Mountain now. We then began the last section of the climb which
was 1 hour clambering over and up some rocks. It was on this section
that Austrian Jonas past us on his way back down, he'd got to the top
in 3 hours! The views were pretty awesome looking down at the local
mountain ranges and farmlands some of it covered by an enourmous
blanket of clouds, then on the distant horizon we could see the
outline of the Tongariro Crossing (our next destination and walk).
Arrived at the summit
crater at 10.30am (after 4 hours of walking). The crater was filled
with very hard snow. We were lucky with the weather no clouds ever
drifted in, so we were in the sun for the full day and remained
dressed only in shorts and t-shirts and hiking boots (this meant
small one's neck got burnt to hell). You could however feel the
coolness of the rocks in the shade, compared to the hotness of the
rocks that were in the sun and had warmed, so could tell if the
clouds drifted in it would get pretty cold pretty fast. At the crater
we then headed another 20 minutes up to the summit, which was some
vague, poorly signed route through more rocks, scree and some snow
drifts. At the top took photos with the Irish Flag waving before
descending. In the middle of the Snow crater we found a little
ladybird sat perched on a rock, this is just over 3,000 metres high!
The only other wildlife we saw was a lot of bees, and a few scattered
Mountain flowers (daisies?) and grasses.
We stopped for a brief
lunch in the crater before starting our descent at 11.30am. Small one
continued his tradition (on any walk) or urinating every hour or so
in the open air. Past a lot more people coming up as we descended.
There was one old fella who looked in his 60's or even 70's, with no
joy to him at all. At the gravel section we slid down like surfers
trying to glide through the gravel. Much quicker, though got us
covered with dust. Through this section past two young guys who were
from Israli (more people from Israli), who were really un-sure about
contiuing. Further down a small family, and again a fella from Israli
(none of them were travelling together). This one was a lot more keen
to get to the top and said he'd kick the arses of the two we'd past
coming down. It was quite disorientating being that high up, and
occasionally would get quite dizzy when staring out to the mountains
you were so far above and then down at your feet and the gravel you
were concentrating on.
Got down the steps okay,
and then on to the Campers Hut. At the hut was a few Rangers
Vehichals and a lot of old people. They had been taken out for a
Biotanical day out and were looking at local Mountain flowers, whilst
we walked past driping with sweat and aching to our bones. One old
couple mentioned that the husband used to go to the summit walk a lot
for sunrise, but when we asked him about it, he said “that was 11
years ago, would you believe i'm now 78”.... he looked older in
fairness. The last 1-1.5 hours going down the zig zag road was the
worst. The knees and legs ached holding ourselves up and moving
forward at that steep slope angle downwards. Small one tried (and
failed) to hitch hike with the Rangers as they drove the old people
past. Got back to our campervan at 2.30am (8 hour return walk), and
had looked forward to using the cafe in the info centre (opent ill
3pm) only to find it had closed half an hour early!
Drove out aching and
covered head to foot with dust from the gravel. Found the
Volca-No-View Cafe where the Austrian was staying and asked there if
we could pay to use the showers ($2.50 each). Washed off the layers
of dust (only one shower so took turns), and then chatted to the
Austrian back for hours had done all his washing, and now hanging out
in his railyway car full of rats and possums ($10 a night). As we
chatted to him for ten minutes he sat there with a pen knife out
stroking the skin on his legs and arms, so thought we'd leave him to
it. Sat in the car park un-packing our day bags and cleaning up more
dust before heading off. The front of the van by now was covered with
blood stained splattered flies as we had driven through a cloud of
them earlier today or yesterday.
Then turned up the
Forgotten World Highway (150km Long). Had planned to camp at the
first rest area after an hours drive, but could not find the one
small one remebered (if it was even on this road) or indeed any other
suitable rest stop for the night, so ended up driving the whole
length in about 4 hours. We stopped in Straftord New World to by some
milk before we started, but small one parked our car scraping the
side door on the back of a pick up truck, so we left quickly without
the milk and now with a fresh scar ont he van. The Forgotten World
Highway was quite impressive, very windey roads, and 12 km un-sealed,
but some fantastic hilly farmland and ridges to view. As we drove we
ate peanuts and boiled eggs, flicking the shells out the window as we
drove. Stopped halfway up the road at the Replublic of Whangmomona,
who had (apparently) offically become a republic after not liking the
local election candidates from either boarding territory). Looked a
bit of a rough, shanty town, but we pulled in and paid $1 to get a
passport stamp at the hotel. At the end of the highway in Taumaruni
stopped in a McDonalds drive through and was served by an over joyful
local woman (the town was pretty depressing looking). Kept driving
towards Taupo and finally found a rest area up at Waithui scenic
lookout, where 2 big vans were parked by the Freedom of Camping sign.
We slept there and no one moved us on.
Tuesday 29th
January 2013
Woke up freezing cold in
the van, another hot shower before hitting the road again. Drove some
300km down the west coast to New Plymouth. Most of the roads down
seemed to have either tractors spraying weeds or road works being
done, so lots of traffic lights. Stopped breifly at the Three
Sisters, but could see neither (apparently there's only 2 anyway) so
kept driving. Got to the coast by Awkaino and as we went round the
corner to the outside bay we saw Mount Taranaki (aka Mount Egmont)
for the first time from a distance. This huge misty blue pyramid way
down the coast, looked quite dominating, and daunting, especially as
we are due to climb it tomorrow.
Got to New Plymouth by
mid afternoon, did a Pack N Save food shop for lunch supplies for our
Mountain walk tomorrow, notied how this Pack N Save was about $2-3
more expensive than back at The Mount (e.g. The same jar of coffee
was $10 instead of $7, or Sauages were $9 and not the usual $5-6!!).
Then to the Info Centre to ask a British lady what we needed to know
about the walk. She said there was no training you could do to
practice for that, e were thinking that that was lucky as we'd done
no training at all (despite claiming to ourselves we'd be up the
Mount Maunganui everyday of our last week). Drove along the harbour
stopping at the big bendy red pole displayed on their boarrdwalk.
Then to Paritutu Mount (159 metres tall) this strange tall thin Mount
by the bay. Climbed it in flip flops thinking that it was the steps
all the way up, but the steps finished to changed into rough rugged
rocky path with a chain ti pull yourself up. Made it to the top for
great views of the Mount Taranaki and the Sugar Loaf Islands in the
bay. We then went hat shopping for our walk, and also thought a
Police Car was pulling us over, only to find out (after sitting in
our car waiting for him to get out) that he had pulled over a
different car.
Headed out of town and
drove 40km to Stratford. A pretty rough town with no look of culture
about the people at all, but despite this they had decided to name
all their street names after Shakespeare Characters (Romeo Street,
Lear Street, Hamelt Street, Falstaff Street etc) being that the town
was named 'Stratford' and Shakespeare was born in Stratford Upon Avon
in England?? They also had a big tudor like clock tower in the town
centre which didn't match with all the fish n chip shops and arcade
buildings. Went to the local Caravan Park in Stratford and was told
an un powered site was $34 for 2, but small one managed to haggle the
woman down to $20 cash – though it all seemed a bit sketchy and off
the books as the cash didn;;t go in the till, nor the number plate or
name in the registration book, she just said to come back after dark
and pick a spot.... right. We hadn't wanted to pay too much as we
were due to get up at 4am to start this Mountain walk by 5am....
After arranging for this
site we drove 20-30km to another side of the Mountain and up to
Dawson Falls. Small one had previously been here on his road trip
back in 2009. Had a nice walk round the falls and the lodge, then sat
and cooked Mince and Pasta. Whilst cooking 2 cars drove off leaving a
fella on his own with a motorbike who was running and whistling after
them. We called him over after a while and turned out they'd driven
off with his keys and he had no number for them as his phone was all
in Arabic. He turned out to be a Jew from Israli, he showed us his
little green knitted cap. We chatted about travelling in general, and
then mentioned how he had a girlfriend back home, to which small one
said he had a girlfriend here too (as we'd seen him with his arms
round some bird at the waterfall), he got a little defense and we
changed the subject. Finally his friends returned after seeing he was
no longer following on the bike (which looked more like a Dirt bike
than a touring bike), and they were gone. After dinner headed back to
our Caravan Park, to try and sneak in despite paying a woman with one
arm in a sling $20 to stay there?? Managed to find wifi but they were
asking for $22 for 24 hours.... or $6 for 1 hour.... bastards.
Monday 28th
January 2013
Awoke at dawn on the farm
campsite by the sound of cockerals crowing incessantly. Small one
drove us out (we never did pay) and we stopped for breakfast in a
small bay. Once fed drove for an hour or so through Auckland suburbs
and finally into Hamilton. A brief stop in the City before another
40km out tot he west coast to the surf town of Raglan. Paid for a
nigth at a Caravan Park as we woould be getting 24 hours there, and
be good to have the comfort of hot showers, security for the car, and
be able to charge everything fully and do laundry, so worth the $18
each. Though small one made a point of telling the receptionist that
their internet was $7.80 when the public one was $7 for 24 hours, and
then back at the van went with the recepionists anyway as it was a
stronger signal.
Went for a brief walk
round Raglan's town. Crossed over a foot bridge to get their from the
campgrounds. It was a publiic holiday so the bridge was of course
full of Mauri kids jumping off it into the water. Took a while to get
across from all the wet bodies clogging the bridge up, and below us
Kayakers and speedboats were trying to avoid the jumpers. The town
was just as packed (Australia Day today?), so walked back to the van
the long way round and relaxed for the afternoon catching up with
internet, laundry, hot showers and charging things. Was a good chance
to just relax, though Tall one still had a headache 3 days after is
sand duning crash.
Sunday 27th January 2013
Tall one awoke around 6am to find
himself lying on the bed but the van in motion. Small onne in his
eagerness to be gone before the Ranger came (looking for camping
fees) had driven off before tall one had got up. We stopped up the
road in TokaToka where small one then went back to sleep and tall one
sat and read a book. Headed south along hte outside of the huge
Kaipara Harbour. Stopped in Kaukapaka for a lunch. Have found an
awful lot of places begin with K here and have a double barrel
name.... such as KeriKeri, KatiKati, KareKare, KiteKite. Is quite
different from driving in Aus in that sense and also that we're
covering half the distances were were doing in Aus but feeling just
as shattered. Averaging about 200 km a day, but the roads are so
endlessley windy and up and down, are speed varies between 20km and
no mroe than 80km. We have planned the route to take some of the
labelled 'Scenic Drives' but todays one through the Waitakere Ranges
(west of Auckland) proved that really all the scenic drives were the
same – which was essnretially narrow roads with a lot of corners
and hills surrounded by ferns and forest (no actual scenary to be
seen).
Some more hills west of Auckland and
scenic roads took us down to KareKare beach, where the movie The
Piano and some scenes from Xena Princess Warrior were filmed. The
sand was all black, and so all the children we saw playing looked
filthy as they were covered with this black stuff. A good walk out on
the boiling hot dark sand, saw lots of little yellow spiny
tumbleweeds blowing across the beach. Some of them in little herds,
these roving gangs of ten or so tumbleweeds rolling across the sand.
A short walk back to KareKare falls, very nice spot, but an Indian
Man was washing his hair in the stream, then after he left a middle
aged woman turned up and started wetting her hands in the water and
rubbing it in her hair as well, all a bit mystical for us, so we
left. Drove through the ranges a bit further down to Pahi beach. More
black sands, but more built up this one, A huge dominant rock in the
middle called Lion Rock (shaoed like a big Lion). Had some chips
brought ion a small shop and had chip butties by the beach.
Drove back into the ranges are stopped
in the Arataki Visitor Centre for their lookout (seeing large Weka
insects n the pathway and swallows nesting under the visitor centre
roof). Saw a large RV parked up settling in for the night with
bottles of wine so thought we'd camp for the night. It had an
automatic gate that locked between 9pm and 5am, and on our walk we
found a very small sign saying self contained vehicals only. We
chickened out and drove out just before 9pm incase we got fined by a
ranger. Headed round the bay to Huia, rest areas were not very good
in a maze of suburbab roads. Then found a basic campsite marked on
the road map whichwe puleld up an un-sealed road to. Turned out to be
a farm in pitch black. There was a field with very long grass with a
few cars and tents in darkness, but because of the long grass it
looked like they had been there for months.... It was pitch black and
we started to hear the sound of pigs screaming, it could well have
turned Texas Chainsaw Massacre but then a chirpy lady turned up
climbing over a fence with a headlight on and we asked her what the
deal was. She stays here a lot and apparently it is $5 a night but
you have to phone the visitor centre (now closed) so suggested we
paid in the morning as no one woul dbe up here during the night. So,
we went to bed, hoping that no angry farmer would burn our van down.
Saturday 26th Janaury 2013
Tall one awoke and it seemed he had not
died in his sleep from his head injury. They headed off early (it had
rained hard during the night) and made it up the steep unsealed road
to the highway. Stopped for breakfast by a field of large cows were
small one pointed out a baby cow with hiccups. Drove down the 100km
road back to civilisation. Stopped in Kaitaia and sat in the small
hospital for tall one to get his head checked out. They wanted $100
to see a doctor but were nice enough to let us see a nurse for free.
Still had to wait a painful 45 minutes in a small waiting room where
a big young mauri fella on drugs wouldn't stop rambling away to his
girlfriend and every other person waiting there. Saw the nurse who
did a few vital checks and said it was up to us, but no major
symptons for head trauma. Then spent an hour in Kaitaia library and
then outside McDonalds for another haf, as usual struggling to upload
photos. Continued to head down the west coast, loys of hawks flying
over the roads and those little Mynar birds hoping over the road.
Stopped off in a small local town to use a public toilet, where some
man in a house party came to the fence dressed as Sponge Bob Square
Pants (literally) and asked us if we knew a kind of sponge that lived
under a rock int he ocean.... we said no to which he said to enjoy
our piss. Further down the coast stopped in Omapere (where the road
map said was occasional Orca sightings), saw no Orcas, but nice views
of the large bay – also here we met two Finnish girls travelling in
a Juicy van (who were next to us last night in Cape Reinga). Small
one tried to speak to them but does what he always does when speaking
to foriegners which is to speak ...very...slow...and...broken
....english,....such...as....WE....are...DRIVING.....to see some....BIG....TREES....next...WHERE YOU GO NEXT?.
Down the coast
further on windy roads through fern and Kauri forests, stopped to
view the oldest Kauri tree in the country (2000 years old estimated),
then down to Trounson Kauri Park campsite. A strange place with a
kitchen and even showers with hot tap, but no on site ranger. Not
sure if we are to drop money in or try and hoold on to it till
morning. Sat eating monkey nuts for half an hour listening to the
sound of cows in a nearby field screaming these strange guttural
groans....
Friday 25th January 2013
Awoke as the fishermen were returning
to their boats around us. Drove sleepily to the start of St Paul
s Rock around the corner and somehow
managed to hike to the top just in time for the sunrise, was some
great views from the top. Drove back to the highway, the roads were
filled with Pukeko, Quails and Rabbits, half of them had been run
over. Stopped in Tauranga Bay where we had breakfast, small one slept
and tall one read. Then further up the Northland stopped in Cable
Beach over looking Doubtless Bay, where small one surprised Tall one
with some bacon rolls. Then headed to the top peninusla of the
Northland, just over 100 km drive to the tip.
First stop was a slight detour down to
Ninety Mile Beach (actually 100 km long), which is a regisytered
highway during low tide. Took a few photos but could not drive our
rental van on their (in their rules or something). 90 odd km later
stopped at Te Paki giant sand dunes. Had no boards to do the sand
boarding but an unfriendly Mauri with a van was renting them for $15
a board and insisted that they are not to be shared, there is no
sharing or i'll charge you for the other person..... We were gone for
only half an hour, sturggled through the massive dunes and managed to
get to the top of the big one he'd directed us to. On the way chatted
to a mother and father watching their nervous daugther slowly crawl
her way back down a sand dune. The mother turned to small one and
asked, “so do you get these dunes in America?”, small one said,
“I don't know I;m from Ireland, they don't have any there”. Small
one swapped t-shirts eith tall one incase this arsehole had
binnouclars (though he had no deposit from us and we had paid cash so
what could he do if he Saw us share). We then stood at the top of the
dunes, tall one in a tight red t-shirt, small one in a huge white
one. Small one laid down to go down on the board, but thought it too
steep and windy and so they swapped shirts back and tall one went
down. Tall one went down like a rocket and at the bottom hit a slight
bump and wernt flying off the board landing on his head. Ending up
with a black eye and a bad headache they werenn't sure whether to
take him to some kind of doctors incase he'd had some kind of
concussion or head wound. Carried on regardless (we were some 100km
away from a proper town), ended up at the top of the country in Cape
Reinga. Some great valley scenary and rugged coastal beaches as we
walked down to the Lighthouse that marked the top. After this stop
went down a steep un-sealed road to Tapotupotu Campsite, where some
young girls in a Caravan took our $6 each for the night. Parked with
all the other backpackers and campervans then went to shower. The
showers were a bit weird, they weren't directed downwards, but were
pointed straight out horizonatlly at the next wall, so you had to be
very tall to stand in this jet of water that only hit your face, then
you had to try and splash the water downwards to try and wet the rest
of your body, bit strange. Small one was too small for this so went
to the outside downward pointing cold showers, and lathered himself
up with shampoo much to the concern of a passing woman who asked him
if he was alright? Tall one's headache continued, but it was a nice
stop and a good day.
Thursday 24th January 2013
The day started with a very cold shower
in the open air at the campsite. Left around 8am and headed into
Whangarei, which was a fair size town. Into McDonalds for a bad
breakfast mcmuffin and cold coffee and some free wifi. The free wifi
worked well enough for small one to make 7-8 failed attempts at
uploading photos, but not working enough to actually do it.
Frustrated headed up town into the library, delighted to hear you get
30 mintues free wifi. Started the photo uploads again, to find them
uploading at the rate of 1 per minute (small one had 132 to get
through). He gave up and paid the $4 to use their PC computers for a
faster internet, only to find that all the photos had rotated to odd
angles and it was still not uploading. By now almsot lunch time and
both pissed off at wasting a morning on 3 attempts with the internet.
Before we left Whangarei looked at their great waterfalls, which was
a bonus at least.
Got in to Paihia in the Bay of
Islands. It was grey and overcast, but within an hour some sun and
blue skies had broken through. Took the ferry across to Russell and
had some fish n chips (small one a burger), was quite nice. Back
across to Paihia and found out the Mauri treaty grounds they'd
planned to go to now cost $25 each plus an extra $18 each to see the
Hakka. Walked up and down the Paihia coastline for a while looking
out at the many islands and kayaks. This was the coast Tall one
walked up and down many times on his own back in Christmas 2008.
Walking back over a bridge from the treaty grounds a family of Mauris
were jumping off into the bay. It was a pretty high bridge, but the
two young kids and the dad did okay, but the big 39 year old mother
(“I'm too old for this”...”you're only 39!”) hung on to the
bridge wailing at the children, until she finalyl made a big splash.
Underneath the bridge a very english male voice cried out, “is
there anyone else coming down!”, no one responded, and then him and
his wife came out in their his and her kayak rather tentativley,
shaking their heads as the Mauri kids climbed the bridge fence to go
again.
On the way out of town filled up at a
petrol station, small one asked the fella is there was somewhere to
fill up their drinking water tank, and the fella had a look round and
said he'd found a hose round the corner... it wasn't theirs but we
could use it anyway, so we got filled up. Then a brief stop at the
short, but quite impressive Haruru falls, watching kayakers paddling
right up tot he base and under the falls. Another drive up the coast
to KeriKeri, scoping out free places to park and sleep for the night.
Went to Rainbow Falls, another impressive falls, but full of sand
flies. Saw some nice parrots there, with red heads, yellow necks,
green bodies and blue wings. Back into town and we parked up in
McDonald's car park to use a bit of wifi (if it works this time) and
try and get away with sleeping here, parking sneakily behind a large
dustbin. Carpark is a bit rough though, next to a liqour store lots
of Mauri's walking past with paper bags, plus there's an old banger
of a car parked here which everytime someone walks past a dog inside
starts viciously barking and the car starts rocking back and
forth.... can't see what type of dog it is, but must be pretty
big.... just an update, just as I was finishing this entry a big
fella (employee) with a slight stammer came out of McDonalds with a
large piece of wood and spent a few minutes squashed between our van
and the dustbin trying to push something inside, then before he left
asked if we were staying here tonight as we couldn't.... guess that
means we'll head off soon.
We did head off soon, and explored the
Whangaroa harbour area. A strange filthy car was driving very slow
with dimmed lights behind us up the country road, till we pulled over
for him to go by and he kind of lingered ahead of us before he
disappeared without murdering us. Carried on to the actual small town
harbour where we saw a large RV parked next to a bar, so pulled into
the car park under a tree and went to sleep. The harbour bar on the
pier was noisy with fisherman as was the small hotel balcony having a
party, but slept adequatley enough. Some people left the bar and went
to sleep int he RV, they obviously didn't have a toilet inside as
they kept coming out to piss in the car park.
Wednesday 23rd January 2013
Awoke tired in the rest area, ittching
freom all the huge sand fly bites recieved a couple of days ago.
Drove on for half an hour and parked up on the shoreline at Omana
Beach where some seagulls pulled everything out of the bins next to
our van and scattered it across the road. Then headed in towards
Auckland, trying to naivgate around poorly signed roads and
junctions, and the ones with signs were behind overgrown bushes.
Stopped in a M cDonalds south of Auckland whichh was full of Mauri
children. Somehow navigated through the City and across the Auckland
bridge, then was easier driving up the Highway 1 to Northland.
Stopped for a Pack N Save shop in Orewa before heading on to
Whangerai. Didn't get there in the end as at 3pm drove past a huge
beach site campsite (at Uretiti) amongst the sand dunes which looked
really nice, so pulled in for $10 each. Went for a walk up the
endless beach, overlooked by the islands and moutains on the opposite
peninsula. The ocean looked freash and turquoise so went in for a
paddle, only to find the first 20 metres or so was thick like a soup
with brown pulpy seaweed. After the dip had a cold shower, which was
outdoors, but surrounded by walls with lockable door. Still quite a
'fresh' experience showering with cold water looking up at the open
sky. Had a couple of beers and then went to the Waipu Caves just 14km
opposite the campsite. Was a self guided thing and we went inside
with our dim headlights, stumbling around in this slimy, slippery
muddy caves. Was really good, but very dark and quiet. Found the glow
worms mentioned not far in and watched them wriggling on the roof
amongst their silky strings hanging from them. Back at camp by 7.30pm
for dinner and a good rest.
Tuesday 22nd January 2013
A long, hot, tiring day. Drove up to
Hot Water Beach, which was empty accept for a 20 metre square part of
sand filled with people furiously digging and rolling in mucky water.
Tall one tried in vein to dig a hole with a child's $2.99 bucket and
spade (very small), after half an hour was very tired and had just
dug up more sand and more cold water. Seemed that it was only a small
area with hot water (which was very very full) or we weren't digging
anywhere near deep enough. So left slightly disappointed and tired,
though found some Pukeko birds ont he way back which were walking
funny as their chicks ran and hid from us.
Then on to Hahei and a long hot walk
to Cathedral Cove. Fantastic views over the islands, white cliffs,
fern forests and turqouise waters, but both exhausted, how we're
going to climb Mount Taranki we don't know. Then a brief look round
Cook's Beach, then across the 309 Highway to take us from the east
coast to the west. It was 21km long and mostly un-sealed. Took us
forever and was some gruellign driving at 20-40km an hour along
gravel roads with tight corners and steep hills. Stopped to view the
Kauri Tree grove, but the small car park was full of broken window
glass (cars broken in to?) and a pile of large bones that stunk
discarded in a ditch.... so ran to the Kauri trees and back before
anyone could rbeak in or mruder us. Also stopped at the Waiau
waterfall which was very nice, but some local was swimming with 3
large dogs, so didn't hang about. Then past a few rough hosues with
pgis roaming free on the road outside, before we made it back to
proper roads and civilisation.
A quick tour of Coromandel Town then
some nice scenic coastal views driving down the west coast to Thames.
Alogn the coast saw some dolphins way out to see and small one
paddled out in very shallow water to try and call to them, but
failed. Stopped off in a large car park to use the toilets, parked
infront of these rolling farmland hills. Whilst there another van
drove in, a girl backpacker got out and walked into the public
toielts carrying a head of broccolli in each hand... then after her
the fella got out the van and walked into the gents toilets vcarrying
a head of broccolli in each of his hands. Headed on down the road and
finally made it to Thames by the evening, where after a brief
McDonalds wifi stint found a 'Freedom of Camping' car park in town
full of vans (suppoesdely only for self contained vans with own
toilets and an approved sticker). Tried our luck there, but after an
hour was moved on by a relativley friendly council man who gave us
directions to a free camp site 45 mintues away.... We kept asking us
where are cooks were, to which small one said he could ook if he
liked, then it became apparent he as saying “where are all the
chooks at?” (as in girls), to which small one said, “oh there's
always lots of them, they come and go...??”. So we left Thames, run
out of town by the local sherrif, and headed the other side of the
Thames Bay.
Driving across the wetlands there was
a fantastic red sky sunset. We then turned off up the Pacific Coast
trail following the bay around through Miranda. Just as it was
getting quite dark we were on these very lonely, desolate backroads,
thinking where th ehell has this fella sent us? Then we came upon a
string of about 40 large caravans all lined up along the beach. We
pulled in and drove the length of them, could see no actual people
just a string of vans, but soon saw it was this Freedom of Camping
thing again, and big signs abotu self contained veichals only... so
in theory could be moved on again, so kept driving up the coast. Then
we tried a DOC site at Waharau Regional Park. Pulled into this field
in the pitch black that was linbed round the otuside with about 20 or
more large tents. Not one light on or one person sat outside these
tents, it looked deserted. We parked up and walked to use the toilets
to be comfronted by this old man with a headlamp on, dressed in
shabby clohtes, slurring his speech and swaying with drunkedness. He
said that you do know you have to pay to stay here, it's $8 a night.
Small one asked where everybody was, are we the only persons here. He
said, “No no, there's about 30 people staying here in all these
tents, but they all had to go to town you see.... but they left me in
chafge, left me here on my own to look after everythingng you
see”..... oh right. Small one asked, “why did they all go to
town?”.... “well there all the one family and had to take their
kids to school you seem but they left me in charge on my own”. Then
at that momememt a huge Mauri fella came lumbering out of the shadows
behind him. Smalll one took a look at him then a look at these 20
apparently deserted tents and we said “see you in the morning”
and got in the car and got the hell out.
Further up the coast we drove into the
Tapapakanga Regional Park, also advertised as a camp site. On an
un-sealed road came to a fork saying left for sttandard campsite and
right for serviced. We went to the basic ones and after a short drive
found a locked gate across the road sayibg closed between 9pm and
8am.... we wondered if they locked their campers inside as we still
hadn't got to the camp grounds? Turned round and went to the serviced
one to find no cars again and no people and another locked gate....
got the hell out of there as well. Continued up the coast further,
stopped in at Orere Point village to look at their seaside rest area,
but the place was very quiet, no people, no lights on in any of the
houses,a dn the rest area was down on a very lonley seculded beach,
so left there as well. By about 10pm we got to Kawakawa Bay and
finally slept outside their public toilets. Small one have a strange
dream about living in Arson Venga's flat.
Monday 21st January 2013
Tried to leave the campsite at 7am to
find the car battery flat (had not left any lights or radio on
either). Thankfully got a jump start from some friendly neighbours
and were on our way. Text Paul with Cruizy Campers back at the Mount
and he got us a garage back in Paeroa to check out our battery
(turned out it was a loose connection). Then back to Karanghake
Gorge, and a couple of hours to walk the railway tunnel hike trying
to find some cicadas, then to the 'windows' gold mining caves in the
dark with headlights on (at one point small one scaring the shit out
of some small children by hiding in the dark and screaming at them).
Aftet thr gorge drove to the Coromandel Peninsula. First stop was
Whangamata, in which we seemed to endlessley be driving up and back
and up and back down the high street looking for good beach spots or
fuel places, passing the 'Sunny' variety store about ten times (and
ocne stopping their to buy a $2.99 kids bucket and spade for the hot
water beach tommorrow). We tried looking for a McDonalds to go
online, and in the end small one pulled over to ask a middle aged
woman with a small child, “excuse me is there a McDonalds in this
town?”, she replied, “McDonalds Town?”, “No” said small
one, “Do you know if there is any McDonalds in this town?”, to
which the lady suggested that we tried the real estate agents at the
top of the street as they have a directory of what families live in
which address (she thought we were asking for a McDonalds family??).
He then pulled over and asked a very old man doing gardening for a
McDonalds, turned out he was stone deaf and his son had to come to
the rescue and tell us there was no McDonalds here. Stopped for lunch
by a very nice beach, then left the town passing a one legged
skateboarder. Finally on to our campground for the night, this one we
had to pay $10 each at the office we padt. Wentworth Falls and
Campsite had some great forest sites and ones by a clear river,
though again full of biting sand flies. Went on a couple of hours
walk (took half a long as guide book and Receptionst suggested) to
Wentworth Falls (a two tier waterfalls int he forest). On the way
back went swimming in a water hole in the river, though were
interuppted by a pair of similar, slightly odd looking, pale lads
with one girl – who were jumping into the river then running out of
it as if it was unbearable. Back at the van and showered for the
first time in a couple of days ($2 coin for 5 minuteas of Hot
Water.... not watched the clock so much since showering in the
Yukon), then hid from sand flies in the van.
Sunday 20th Janauary 2013
The day started with us opening our van
doors to eat breakfast looking out across the lake. Whilst eating
breakfast a little white tailed sparrow flew into our van onto our
table looking for cumbs, then flew down and landed on tall one's foot
where it shat. We headed out early to Wai-O-Taupo Thermal Wonderland.
A free viewing of a large eggy smelling bubbling mud pools. Then we
brought our tickets for the main park to be told it took an hour and
a half to 2 and a half hours to walk around, but that the Lady Knox
Geyser went off outside the park (fee included on our ticket) in an
hours time. This meant we had to rush round the main park (mostly
colourful pools and steaming vents) in haf the usual time, this was
mostly so small one could point and laugh at the cashier when we got
back so early to say how quick we did it. The Lady Knox Geyser
viewing platform was half full of tourists already, even half an hour
before the erruption (which is billed at being at 10.15am every
day?). At 10.14am a little quiet man came out holding a mic in one
hand and what looked like his lunch in a paperbag in the other. He
stood right next to the geyser fearlessley while we checked our
watches. He did a little talk on its history and the 10.15am went by,
we wondered why he hadn't been blown sky high. Then he announced that
they artifically made the geyser errupt at this time everyday by
putting in some washing powder like formula (based on how the
original working convicts made it errupt putting in their clothes
washing 100 years ago). So felt a bit cheated out of that. Then in
the car park an Indian family had a flat battery on their camper and
small one went down and pretneded to help whilst the woman parked a
few cars away did all the actual helping. Late morning drove into
Rotorua information centre. We enquiried about the Hobbiton tour in
Matamata (what it involved etc etc), the aggressivbe asian woman
behind counter within less than a minute had phoned up and booked us
on the tour and was then asking for our credit card payment of $75
each! We had planned to do it tomorrow, but thought it would save us
a day to squeeze it in the afternoon so headed up to Matamata.
The drive up was full of very very
aggressive drivers. Some swearing out their car windows as they past
us. We were still doing 85km an hour, but yet people were screaming
for us to pull over. In fairness at one point there was a queue of 20
cars behind us. The Hobbiton tour consisted of some very very old
buses and some frantic bus drivers taking us into some private
farmland. Then with some fantastic sunyn weather we were guided round
by tour guide the movie set of the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit films
– where they filmed the Shire. Most was all original movie sets and
props and because of this you could not wonder on your own and had to
have a guide. The guide listed off a lot of nerdy info about the
movies (“2 minutes i this gate is the ine Frodo goes by when he
asks Gandalf about....”). At the end of the tour we went into the
Green Dragon pub and was given a free beer each. Small one chatted to
a Dublin man noow living in Auckland. After the tour we went to
Rotorua McDonalds, spent $7 on two expesnive coffees (their cheap
maker was broke) then settled dow to use the free wifi, before we
realzied this branch had no wifi. Back into the car we headed towards
Karanaghake where we were camping that night. Lots more road rage on
the way up as aggressive drivers weren't satisfied by having to drive
at 85km an hour. Went through Paeroa and saw the giant L&P
bottle, and found we could park outside their McDonalds and log on to
their wifi for free. Finalyl found our campsite at Dickey Flat, down
a gravel road by a river. Lots of tent sites there and lots of people
(seemingly doing the same as us) getting the envelopes to pay, but
never bringing them back with the money to drop in the box until the
ranger was to show up (if they did). A nice campground though full of
aggressive, biting sand flies. Spoke briefly to a German Backpacker
couple staying in a tent, who claimed that their car could no longer
reverse....??
Saturday 19th January 2013
Up around 5am. Small one went to shower
to find the grey haired cleaner, Terry mopping the toilets. Terry put
out his hand to shake with Small One, though as he was holding a piss
cloth in his other hand, Small one made an excuse and left. Packed up
the van, small one putting his Rod Stewart book on the dash, with him
looking out like a smug mascot. Reversed the camper van out and it
made beeping noises like an ice cream van. Then headed down the town
driving along the beach as the sun was rising. Brought a Burger King
drive through breakfast where the staff had got to know small one as
he'd been getting their half price breakfasts every day before work.
Pulled in by the beach to eat breakfast and watch the rest of the sun
rise. As we sat there looking out across the ocean a Mauri fella got
out his car next to us and walked over. He held out two little
booklets and began to explain that it may be beautiful here and there
may be beautiful places in the world, but there was still death and
murder, but that's not what God intended, he intended us all to live
forever in paradise and that can still happen..... Small said said
for him to just leave the leaflets. Had a brief, politce chat about
travelling and he left us with his Peace On Earth Pamplet, which had
an illustrated cover involving a little girl stroking a lion and
another little girl and her mother stroking a grizzly bear.
It was a cold start to the day and
small and tall were bundled up in beanie hats, trousers and fleeces.
They met Claire (minus Liam) by New World to find her dressed in
sumemr shorts and t-shirt. We then all headed down to the coast for
her to do the White Island day tour with us, before we headed inland
for the rest of our 3 week tour of the North Island. Stopped off at
the huge kiwi slice in Te Puke for a photo, then made it to Whakatane
within another hour, despite the very aggressive other drivers on the
road.
Looked quite a nice little
riverside/harbour side town. Parked up outside the tour building and
went in and brought a coffee which took forever for them to make.
When we purchased our tickets, they didn't actualyl give us paper
ticketd but gave us these large metal cones with red stickers on??
When we boarded the boat we had to hand these coens to a man stood
outside, whilst we could hear Rod Stewart singing 'we are sailing'
played from inisde, all a bit strange. Headed out the harbour and
towards the White Island, the only active Marine volcano in NZ. On
our way driving down to Whakatane could see it from the beachside
highway, just on the horizon was this tall island with a chimney of
smoke billowing out. Took us almost 2 hours to sail over to it, but
on the way we stopped to play with some common dolphins, who chased
after the boat. Saw them for a good 15 minutes and must have been
about 15 or so of them... a great way to start the trip and day.
Arrived at the island just as they
started playing the theme song from Titanic on the boat?? We anchored
off shore then had to be ferried ashore in this dodgy black rubber
dingy covered with puncture plasters. We were given yellow hard hats
and gas masks to wear (gas masks optional). Was then taken on a 2
hourwalking tour around the island. Through the remians of an old
sulphur mining factory, past sulphur streams of all shades of orange,
silver and green. Smoke billowed out from holes in the cliff faces,
large holes had bubbling mud pools, and streams had boiling water in
them. They told us to taste some water out one of the streams
(supposedly caused by the steam from the volcano), which tasted very
warm and very iron like, not nice... The highlight was the crater
which we looked down on this plain of cracked ground which then
dropped away where huge clouds of smoke was coming from. Through that
smoke there was some giant bubbles of mud lava rising and falling,
then bursting and splashing everywhere, was quite impressive. The
sulphur fumes and smoke did get to you a bit, tall one complained of
headache and his nose/eyes sinuses were all playing up. Bavk on the
boat and a tour around the outside of the island as they hhanded us
these very neat little packet lunches, which small one was so
impressed with he was still talking about them hours later. Sailing
back and half the customers fell asleep. A young female member of the
crew came up to us all perky asking “where arre you guys from?”,
we did the speal about the trip, the visa and the Mount etc etc, then
she finally left to be replaced within 2 minutes by a fella from the
crew who opened with th questions, “so where are you guys from?”.
Back to Whakatane and a walk to a nearby waterfall which was quite
pretty, even though some lame teenage Mauri boys drove past shouting
“that's are fucking waterfall??!!”. We then said our goodbyes to
Claire, just as some woman standing outside her office smoking asked
us “where are you guys from?”.
Tall and Small headedc towards
Rotorua. Stopped in a Bunnings to get a car key copied (As they only
had one and assumed they'd probably lose it). Painfulyl had to wait
half an hour while some short girl and a very tall and very awkward
old man tried to work out which key to use to copy it and how to use
the machine. Headef inland up Highway 30, but none of the rest areas
we hoped to sleep at for free looked very safe, so headed through
Rotorua until we foudnt he obscure DOC (Government/National Park)
camp site called Glen Roe. A nice spot by a lake with ducks, herons
and coots, and a fair few other vans. Had to pay $8 per person and
out into an 'honesty' money box, but we just filled in the envelope
ready and left on dashboard incase someone came. We then had dinner
and went to bed early, it was so early the ducks on the pond hadn't
gone too bed yet.
